The Bhuj Earthquake Museum is transforming the tourism landscape in Gujarat, welcoming 7,000 visitors and counting.

“The Kutch region suffered a shock when the earthquake struck in 2001,” said Amit Arora, Bhuj District Magistrate. As a 'mark of respect' for the lost souls, this museum holds special meaning for the people of Bhuj.

“It recognizes the rescue efforts and highlights the history, art and culture of the area,” Arora said. He added that the museum is developing into a cultural center and has the potential to become “the heart of the city.”

The light brown memorial, which extends along several white funnel-shaped canopies, is located on top of the Bhujio Dongar hill after which Bhuj is named. They can be seen from a distance, and are hard to miss. Using interactive technology, the museum tells the stories of damage, destruction and suffering in Bhuj and neighboring areas through an immersive experience.

A digital screen where visitors can listen to survivors' stories Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Next to this building is a vast forest created using Japanese Miyawaki technology. This forest – described as the largest in the world – houses 50 check dam tanks bearing nameplates of almost all the earthquake victims.

The light brown monument is hard to miss Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Seven sprawling galleries — called Rebirth, Rediscover, Restore, Rebuild, Rethink, Relive, and Renew — go beyond the story of the earthquake and its aftermath to give insight into Kutch's history and disaster response. Three of the seven exhibition halls – Rebirth, Rediscovery and Rethink – showcase these aspects. The film “Reconstruction” depicts then-Gujarat Chief Minister Modi leading the reconstruction efforts nine months after taking over from his predecessor Keshubhai Patel, who was criticized for his poor handling of the reconstruction work.

Records of destruction and suffering coexist with records of resilience and collective memory, providing a three-hour visit packed with information and experiences. However, as guides rush visitors through the sections, it is difficult to contemplate the sense of loss and pain that accompanies natural disasters.

Smritivan is not only meant to commemorate the victims and educate future generations about preparedness measures. The Gujarat government has entrusted her with a greater responsibility – to promote tourism in Bhuj.

She wants the museum to become a cultural hotspot for residents of Bhuj and tourists flocking to the Rann of Kutch. Seven private agencies were entrusted with managing and administering the museum.

A cultural attraction

If the turnout is any indication, the museum has already become a hit among the people. According to museum director Manoj Pandey, Smritivan received over 7 lakh visitors between September 2022 and January this year. At least three to four schools come for field trips every day, not only from Gujarat but also from neighboring states like Rajasthan and Maharashtra.

The museum also hosts four to five events every month in collaboration with schools, local NGOs or corporate offices. Programs range from observing World Environment Day, celebrating festivals such as Diwali and Christmas, or commemorating events such as the Ram Temple dedication ceremony.

The museum hosted a day-long program before the Ram Temple dedication ceremony. An impromptu speech on the Hindu deity was given in the hall, along with a felicitation ceremony for kar sevaks who were part of the temple movement. An essay competition on Ram and a live drawing session of 18 different aspects of his life were also held. The highlight of the day was a couple who walked from Miwayaki Forest to the museum dressed as Ram and Sita. Nearly 200 to 250 people launched into spontaneous garba performances in the building, chanting Jai Shri Ram.

Celebrations before the dedication ceremony of the Ram Temple at the Shantivan Museum building in Bhuj | Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

However, the museum's “most important day” remains January 26, which is celebrated much differently than the rest of the country.

“Last year, we had a big ceremony here. The police, national forces and locals together did a great job,” said Manoj Pandey, who was appointed director of the museum by Delhi-based Sony Management.

He noted that on January 26 – also the day of the 2001 Bhuj earthquake – families of the victims visited the museum to honor their dead.

The museum is still a work in progress. Plans are underway to further digitize the galleries and increase the number of exhibits.

“We are trying to display materials from the families of the victims. We have reached out to them. We are trying to buy one or two items related to the deceased person and display them here.”

Read also: Can Vadnagar rewrite history? A 3,000-year-old Gujarat town holds evidence of India's 'Dark Age'

Previous controversies

Twenty years is a short time to forget a massive disaster like the Bhuj earthquake. Even those born after 2001 grew up hearing vivid accounts of its atrocities. Both young and old are now aware of Pugh's immediate response measures, partly due to the city's strict building codes.

35-year-old artist Jigar Soni, a resident of Bhuj, notes that construction measures have changed the city's landscape, making it expand horizontally instead of vertically. However, he is most proud of the “advanced museum” located in his hometown.

“The 2001 earthquake was very devastating. Such an earthquake left a big lesson for the people. Young people and tourists will learn how to get out of the earthquake and how to overcome it.

However, the construction of the museum was accompanied by a fair share of controversy. Acharya noted that his NGO, Honnarshala Foundation, has organized some community gatherings to help architects understand the context of the museum's design.

But community suggestions did not make it into the final plans. The monuments and name plaques did not align with local tradition, which considers a dead person's soul to be “immortal.”

“There is no meaning in worshiping the body after its death. This is the belief as per the Hindu shastras. So someone suggested planting trees instead and they could give the names of the victims who died. Their families could come and take care of the plant,” recalls the Acharya.

He also suggested creating small walking trails instead of “changing the environment of Bhujio Hills”. But eventually, dam reservoirs were built where the names of the victims were engraved on the steel, Acharya said. The rationale behind this “noble” concept was that the flowing water would provide a tranquil space for families to remember their loved ones.

A mani dam bearing the name plates of the victims Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

Bharvi Soni, 21, who participated in the Ram temple dedication event at the museum, was in absolute awe of the new cultural addition to Bhuj. She loved the clay works on display at the centre, which “give a glimpse into Kutch craftsmanship.”

Born two years after the earthquake, she grew up hearing stories of buildings “falling like leaves” and children and teachers dying during that year’s Republic Day march.

Soni was very impressed with the Relive exhibition, where visitors can experience the tremors of the Bhuj earthquake while viewing 3D images of crumbling buildings and divided roads.

“We can experience the earthquake. It makes you feel like we're in the middle of an earthquake and feel the actual incident that was that strong,” she said.

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The many faces of the disaster

The galleries inside Smritivan – which translates to “forest of memories” – are shrouded in darkness. Rooms dedicated to the earthquake focus on messages and exhibits. One powerful installation shows corpses and rubble that visitors can walk past, giving them a glimpse of the scale of the devastation. Then, there are walls of digital newspaper clippings, with photos and videos of rescue and rehabilitation work showing how the city rose from the rubble.

An installation displaying death and rubble in the aftermath of an earthquake Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

The journey does not take people directly into tragedy. It is a slow buildup that builds to its peak.

“There are a few departments dedicated to earthquakes [and] Geographical landscape. “It is like an educational tour,” said District Magistrate Arora, who regularly receives reports from the museum authority regarding its operations and work.

He said a space like the Smritivan Earthquake Memorial and Museum helps replace people's fear with “awareness”.

Once these clips end, tourists enter an exhibit with a small black-and-white television set frozen in the moment of devastating impact. Ustad Bismillah Khan was playing the shehnai at 8:46 am on Republic Day when the 7.7-magnitude seismic tremor changed the course of the Bhuj. Records of survivors' activities are displayed in digital galleries.

“I was getting ready in front of the mirror when I shook and cracked,” one entry reads.

One exhibit showed several phone receivers hanging from the ceiling, playing recorded panic calls. Some walls specifically highlight relief and rescue aid received from around the world. The names of countries and institutions and details of their assistance – from human resources to financial and logistical assistance – are recorded in one of the galleries.

A shiny wall displays details of the cash and humanitarian aid sent by countries around the world Photo: Monami Gogoi, ThePrint

All this is maintained by a staff of over 200 people, under the supervision of Director Pandey. They make sure that the museum runs like clockwork on all days, except Mondays.

However, visiting the 2.48-acre museum is not cheap. An adult ticket costs 300 rupees, although the price is halved for those under 18 years of age. According to Bhuj residents like Acharya, the high price is a deterrent for many visitors.

“I always recommend guests who come to Bhuj to visit the museum. But for a family of four to five adults, the total amount will come to Rs 1,500. This is something not all people will be able to spend.”

(Editing by Zoya Bhatti)

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