September, said the legendary American Vogue Editor-in-Chief Candy Pratts, it’s January in fashion. After a brief summer break following the conclusion of the menswear and haute couture shows—which took place in June and July—Womenswear Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 arrives in New York on September 6, 2024, with subsequent stops in London, Milan, and Paris. Consider it a new fashion term.
Details are relatively limited so far, with each week’s lineup yet to be announced. Some details have been released, however, including the news that Pieter Mulier will present his next Alaïa collection in the city on September 6, kicking off fashion month. It’s been more than four decades since the house’s eponymous founder, Azzedine Alaïa, first showed in the American city in September 1982, to an audience that included Andy Warhol and Paloma Picasso. Mulier, who has attracted many A-list fans in his own right, will no doubt draw an equally star-studded crowd. Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren will show the day before with a special show in the Hamptons on September 5.
Elsewhere, it will likely be a season of debuts, with Alessandro Michele set to show at Valentino during Paris Fashion Week. Eyes will also be on Givenchy, Chanel and Dries Van Noten, which, at the time of writing, are without a creative director.
Here's everything Wallpaper* knows about Women's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 so far.
Women's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025: What to Expect
New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 (September 6 – 11, 2024)
New York Fashion Week kicks off – unofficially – on September 5, when American fashion giant (and Wallpaper* USA 400 member) Ralph Lauren presents his latest collection in an exclusive runway show in the Hamptons, the Long Island resort town that has long been home to the rich and famous. “The Hamptons is more than a place,” Lauren said in a statement. “It’s a natural world of endless blue skies, ocean, green fields and white picket fences, rustic and elegant with a quality of light that drew artists here decades ago. It’s my home, my refuge and a source of inspiration forever.”
The following day, Pieter Mulier will present his final Alaïa collection in New York, four decades after Azzedine Alaïa first appeared in the city in 1982. It will be the second time he has shown outside of Paris—an intimate show at the designer’s Brutalist home in Antwerp, Belgium, took place in 2023—and will undoubtedly be a highlight of the schedule. “A city close to the heart of Pieter Mulier and the house,” Alaïa said on Instagram. It will be accompanied by a “series of exclusive moments” that will take place in the city from September 6 to 8.
Elsewhere, Tory Burch’s renaissance will continue, as the designer presents her spring/summer 2025 collection, while New York-based brands Coach, Proenza Schouler and Michael Kors are all scheduled to show. Wallpaper* USA 400 member Willy Chavarria and Peter Do, the latter showing his third collection for Helmut Lang, will round out the lineup.
London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 (12 – 17 September 2024)
London Fashion Week, which will kick off slightly earlier this season to avoid clashing with Milan Fashion Week (which kicks off this season at 3pm on 17 September), will continue its 40th anniversary celebrations with a programme that is sure to feature the usual slew of dynamic, emerging brands alongside a handful of more established names. Of the latter, Burberry will remain the main attraction for international editors visiting the city – Daniel Lee will show his fourth collection for the British label – while JW Anderson will present another standout collection. Other names expected to attend include Simone Rocha, Roksanda, Erdem, Ahluwalia and Aaron Esh, as well as a new edition of London’s Fashion East incubator.
Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 (17 – 23 September 2024)
Milan Fashion Week will last one day longer this season, as part of a revamp of the fashion month calendar led by the Camera della Moda, the week's organizing body. “I am very pleased with this synergistic effort by the four major players in the fashion circuit,” said the organization's president, Carlo Capasa.[We] 'We have been asking for some time for an extension of Milan Fashion Week, given its calendar of over 200 events.'
The week will kick off with Fendi on September 17, with the Roman house presenting its spring/summer 2025 collection at 3pm (this time, the show will take place on a Tuesday, instead of the usual Wednesday). Elsewhere, expect a continuation of Prada’s “ravescape fairytale” show, unveiled at its menswear show in June (the house’s womenswear shows typically draw inspiration from their male predecessors), alongside similarly successful shows from Max Mara, Giorgio Armani (as part of the designer’s ongoing 90th birthday celebrations), Gucci, Versace, Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 (September 23 – October 1, 2024)
The biggest moment of Paris Fashion Week will undoubtedly be the arrival of Alessandro Michele at Valentino, which will present its first show this September (the former Gucci creative director’s first collection for the house, titled “Avant les Débuts,” was revealed in a surprise lookbook last June). “It is an incredible honor for me to be welcomed at Maison Valentino. I feel an immense joy and responsibility to join a fashion house that has etched the word ‘beauty’ into a collective history of distinctive elegance, refinement, and extreme grace,” Michele said in a statement released after his appointment in March 2024.
Several other houses—including Givenchy, Dries Van Noten, and Chanel—are currently without a creative director, but they will likely be on the show in some form (or even have new designers in place by September). With Peter Copping set to be creative director of Lanvin starting in September, it’s unlikely he’ll make his debut until next February. An otherwise packed schedule—as has become the norm in Paris—will include shows from Loewe, Rick Owens, Dior, Saint Laurent, Hermès, and more.
Stay tuned for more information on Women's Fashion Month S/S 2025.