Fashion
The fashion world mobilized when AIDS strikes. Now his coronavirus.
The coronavirus pandemic has ravaged the fashion world, cutting jobs, closing department stores and ravaging industry capitals like Milan, Paris and New York. Events are canceled and trends don’t matter to those away from home. It seems frivolous to worry about fashion right now. But fashion still cares.
In less urgent periods, the activism of designers can feel gestural or hollow. Putting a catwalk model in a feminist slogan T-shirt does little for the general public. But when a real crisis occurs, those in power open their studios, their supply chains and (perhaps most importantly) their portfolios.
Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue and Cond Nast’s art director, announced that his glossy paper, along with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), would open a relief fund for those in the industry affected by the virus.
A representative for Vogue sent Wintour a statement to The Daily Beast that said: There are so many people who need help, especially since small businesses and workers across the country are suffering devastating economic consequences. Many of those already affected are members of our fashion community, from designers to employees to retailers, from top to bottom of the economic ladder. And all of us at Voguetogether with Tom Ford and the Council of Fashion Designers of America are determined to help.
The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation has spent $ 10 million to fight the coronavirus and support colleagues affected by the pandemic. In Milan, the Armani group donated 1.25 million euros to four different hospitals and to the National Directorate of Civil Protection. Gucci has allocated more than 2 million euros.
Employees of the Pradas Perugia plant in Italy will produce medical coveralls and masks. The same goes for the French luxury conglomerate LVMH, Kering, LOral and Herms. The brands have reorganized their perfume and make-up facilities to produce products in demand such as a hand sanitizer.
On the west coast, smaller and popular brands like Reformation and American Apparel have also offered their resources to create masks. New York designers Christian Siriano, Brandon Maxwell, Prabal Gurung and Cynthia Rowley have also pledged their support for the city and will make medical-grade clothing.
The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), may be closed because the coronavirus is ravaging New York, but around the boroughs, students, professors and alumni have mobilized to sew and deliver masks to health workers attached to these services essentials.
The fashion industry is up to the task, Joanne Arbuckle, president of FITs Industry Partnerships and Collaborative Programs, told The Daily Beast. People don’t often realize how socially aware we are. When I started in this industry, everyone thought that I was sitting near a window overlooking the Hudson River and that I was drawing all day.
Instead, Arbuckle is leading grassroots efforts these days to produce masks for healthcare workers. Our faculty member who runs the Manhattan, Queens, Brooklyn initiative has obtained a pledge from Supima Cotton to donate tissue, she said. So one of the things I have to work on this weekend is the logistics within the borough: how can I collect the masks safely?
This reminds Arbuckle how FIT responded to Hurricane Sandy, where thousands of New Yorkers lost their homes and restoration efforts required approximately $ 32.8 billion. With a group of interior design students, she went to Long Island to volunteer with construction companies and rebuild family homes.
I was so impressed because the students were very sensitive to different socio-economic levels and made great design changes that were thought through in terms of budget, said Arbuckle. Sea source in IKEA for one customer and Pottery Barn for another.
Fashion’s ability to come together may have been tested for the first time during the AIDS crisis, which devastated the creative class and killed designers like Willi Smith and Halston. Perry Ellis, then president of the CFDA, also died of AIDS-related viral encephalitis at the age of 46, although he has never publicly disclosed his diagnosis.
When I saw all my friends dying from the AIDS epidemic, I went to Perry Ellis with an idea to raise awareness, said fashion designer Donna Karan at The Daily Beast. He did not think it was appropriate to talk about it and said it was a private matter.
Kenneth Cole, then a 31-year-old shoe designer, had a different opinion. I did not feel at risk of the pervasive stigma [of HIV and AIDS], maybe because I was not in danger, he said. (Cole is straight and married to Maria Cuomo Cole, sister of the Governor of New York.) I saw an opportunity to do something meaningful at a time when others were reluctant.
In 1985, Cole set up a media campaign, shot by Annie Leibowitz, featuring famous models like Paulina Porizkova, Christie Brinkley, Kelly Emberg and Beverly Johnson posing with children. Below the sober image, in black and white, read the copy, For the future of our children, support the American Foundation for AIDS Research. We do.
At the time, I wanted to make a collective statement about something that few people would do, Cole remembers. What’s the best way to talk about HIV-related stigma, focused on gay men, and then get beautiful women and children? Bringing them all together was a very powerful moment, because it showed me very early on how badly people want to be offered opportunities and platforms from the start, and how you can take a meaningful position on something that is bigger than what we do.
After Ellis’ death in 1986, the CFDA hired Anna Wintour to plan Seventh on Sale, a three-day gala and shopping spree that ultimately raised $ 3 million for AIDS research. Kenneth Cole will become president of amfAR in 2005, a position he will hold for 13 years, until he resigns after reports that he allegedly allocated charity funds to Harvey Weinsteins investors.
I quit, the whole board quit, said Cole. We all agreed to resign. It seemed like the right thing to do. I have been a member of the board of directors for almost 30 years. I built this board and I built a large part of this organization. I felt it was time to move on.
Cole went on to say that Harvey was a horrible person. He devastated not only the women in his life, but also the organizations with which he worked in business. I did not know this part of him. I read about it when everyone else did. But it was just a horrible circumstance, and I think the system played out. I hope we have learned something from it.
The collective resources will certainly be so seriously compromised and diminished because of what has been experienced. I don’t know how to get out well at the end
With regard to the coronavirus, Cole has closed retail stores and has pledged that 20% of net sales on its website will go to the COVID-19 Solidarity Response Fund. I don’t know how it was going to be today, he said. The collective resources will certainly be so seriously compromised and diminished because of what has been experienced. I don’t know how to get out well at the end.
After his law governor Andrew Cuomo asked for more masks and medical clothing, Cole said his office had started answering 5 to 10 calls a day from people who had the resources and the ability to produce the product.
It’s wonderful, he said. It’s our industry. We intrinsically adapt to opportunities. Watching what is happening now is very inspiring, how many people were so willing and enthusiastic prepared to respond to this need in the community.
The coronavirus has made a hot spot in New York, which still supports much of the fashion economy. This makes it impossible for designers to ignore.
The closure of New York at this time does not bode well for the immediate future of the industry, said fashion and textile historian Doris Domoszlai-Lantner. Same thing for Milan and Paris. If you work in an industry affected by a crisis such as COVID-19, it makes sense that you then help to alleviate the situation in order to bring your industry back to normal as soon as possible.
Fashion rebounded after September 11 shook the city. Wintour and the CFDA created the original Fashion Fund in 2003, to help emerging designers and ensure that New York remains a style capital. Now, this same allocation will be reallocated for causes of coronavirus.
Karan recalled September 11, which occurred on the fourth day of New York Fashion Week. Its DKNY distribution line was to be broadcast that day, and its eponymous high-end line was to be broadcast the following Wednesday.
[City] the leaders asked me if they could use all the furniture that was intended for the show at the armory. It wasn’t even a question, wrote Karan.
The headquarters of Cond Nast, One World Trade Center, is also a symbolic sign of reconstruction after the attacks.
Past emergencies have forced the famous world of social fashion to come together and come together in starry fundraisers or glamorous auctions.
It is uncomfortable for me to have to stay inside and not be there to help the frontline community, so I do what I can by donating to those who may be
Bennah Serfaty, senior communications director for amfAR, recalled a 1999 Oscar dress auction led by Wintour and the late Natasha Richardson, which raised $ 1.5 million. Or the annual amfAR gala in Cannes, which takes place during the film festival and brings in 1 to 4 million dollars a year.
But with the coronavirus requiring social distancing, designers cannot throw away their usual party or gather thousands of people to protest. These studio sewing masks should do this in as small a group as possible, six feet apart. Suddenly, solidarity means loneliness.
My heart goes out to everyone, patients, loved ones, nurses, doctors and first responders, wrote Karan. It is uncomfortable for me to have to stay inside and not be there to help the community on the front line, so I do what I can by donating to those who can. We come together as we have in the past, and that is what makes us powerful.
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