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Rodarte RTW Spring 2022 – WWD




Is there a greater luxury in these times of pandemic than the freedom to move?

The movement was a theme in several designer shows at New York Fashion Week on Saturday, starting with Rodarte.

For those who have forgotten how the common ritual of a parade can create real emotion, sometimes even tears, Kate and Laura Mulleavy have brought it back.

The designers brought their guests to Westbeth Artists Housing in New York City, founded in 1970 to provide affordable living space for artists and their families, emphasizing the importance of art and its collective experience in community life.

This is something that the American fashion community has been missing for the past year and a half. Maybe that’s why Rodarte’s show was so cathartic. We forgot what it looked like – the production, the choreography, the inflated music and the beauty of the clothes.

The Mulleavy also captured freedom of movement (and the spirit of the West) in the collection, using caped silhouettes, sheer lace, stretch bodysuits and leggings.

A trippy mushroom-print silk cape dress opened in the breeze, while a black caped bodysuit and one-leg leggings had a glamorous vibe similar to that of LA fashion liberator Rudi Gernreich.

The designers evoked the western landscape from sea to desert, with a gorgeous black silk dress with a beaded white shell on the chest, and a bright blue blazer with beaded white hibiscus flowers, worn with a beaded cape underneath. , a white bodysuit crossed on the front, wide pants and cowboy boots. It was incredibly chic (and the beading would have made Nudie Cohen proud).

Speaking of scenery, the Mulleavy got to take a road trip to Rosewell, New Mexico, hence the little green alien in a spectacular hand-beaded scenic cape. Pleated capes over crepe blouses and handkerchief hem skirts and dazzling beaded fringe dresses in shocking pink, yellow or black have appealed to California canyon ladies and Hollywood starlets.

Finally, the models stepped out in identical tunic dresses, each with a different sunset hue, and stood barefoot in the courtyard, like a goddess circle reconnecting us all.




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