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Thom Browne Spring 2022 – WWD




For his return to New York City, Thom Browne staged a post-genre garden of fashion delights in front of one of the best dressed crowds of the week including Dan Levy and Russell Westbrook, both absolutely fabulous in skirts. from the creator.

Along with his partner Andrew Bolton, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s upcoming exhibition, “In America: A Fashion Lexicon,” Browne wanted to take the opportunity to reflect on how clothes have become easier to wear in the country. over time.

Its setting was therefore a magical garden with an open frame house, where “two elderly bachelors” appeared wearing the Edwardian era S-shaped figure which forced a woman’s hips back and forth like a fat pigeon. chest.

In a tale loosely based on JG Ballard’s short story “The Garden of Time,” the couple are trapped in a beautiful decadence, right down to their garden statues. These statues were expertly disguised mannequins wearing capes embroidered with hundreds of silk flowers, of course.

As the story unfolded, the models removed their capes, removing all of that excess embellishment to reveal Browne’s not-so-classic fit in new, more minimal and modular shapes, including a sleeveless vest. featuring square shoulders, a strapless A-line dress-pants and a short-sleeved double-breasted skirt suit. In chevrons, seersuckers, pinstripes and prince of wales, the pieces were exquisite in appearance, so simple.

Some missing sleeves and half sleeves were a hint of what was to come – 20 final looks inspired by the Greek and Roman galleries at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which have a lot of missing appendages due to damage over time.

Each trompe-l’oeil look was based on actual sculpture and created in vivid colors like the original statues were. The clothes were crafted by painstakingly hand-sewing several layers of tulle to mimic shadows and pleats – a lavender tulle A-line cape dress, a fitted top and low waist orange tulle skirt, a cap sleeve top and a top. -teal blue tulle waist skirt.

They looked remarkably modern, though the work was hard to see, especially compared to Browne’s typically more hyper-embellished collections. This is the challenge of simple design.

It didn’t matter much anyway. From animal mascot hostesses Thom Browne in the lobby to penny farthing bikers waving goodbye, it was entertaining. And there is nothing more American than that.




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