Riccardo Tisci gets creative at Burberry, ripping and reconstructing the trench coat and check, and putting a personal stamp on it, with abstract animal prints in the shape of paper cutouts and hats with erect feline ears. He called the collection “Animal Instinct”.
It has been a year of disruptive and emotional change for Tisci, but he is determined to make it happen: his mother Elmerinda has passed away and he has dedicated the show to her and to “a journey full of new possibilities.”
He also says thank you to Burberry CEO Marco Gobbetti, a longtime colleague and trusted advisor both at Burberry and when the two were at Givenchy in mid-August. Gobbetti is Salvatore Ferragamo’s CEO and, contrary to what some might think, Tisci is not following him.
“I have a lot of respect for Marco’s decision to return to Italy, to go back to his roots and take care of his family,” Tisci said in an interview. “But I stay at Burberry – of course I am. I am young, I still have a lot to do. I do not go.”
He admitted that “it hasn’t been an easy time,” with the pandemic and the lockdowns, “but things are changing quickly, and I’m very happy here with the way the collections and the shows are going.”
Tisci once again presented his collection digitally – and off schedule – between the end of Milan and the beginning of Paris. He filmed a parade organized in an undisclosed location. But that’s all for the compromises of the COVID-19 era, and the plan is to return to live events soon.
It would have been fun to have seen the spring collection in person with all the bangs, dripping fabric, puffy capes, and flashes of flesh. Indeed, Tisci’s trench coats were unlike anything Burberry has seen – and not all of them are suitable for the humidity and drizzle of London.
The trenches came whole and wise with high clerical collars; like apron-style tops with chunky chain details; like dizzying minis with cropped collars or with peek-a-boo backs exposing the models’ bodysuit-clad stockings. Others came with leather panels, cutout shoulders, or flowing black capes, like Batgirl.
This collection marked the return of va-va-voom Tisci. “It’s elegantly sexy – not vulgar – and everything was very instinctive and honest,” the designer said. “I now have the security to deconstruct – and rebuild. “
These trench coats weren’t the only pieces of Burberry he separated.
Tisci took the stripes from the plaid pattern – beige, black, white, and red – separated them, added pink and yellow, and fashioned them into graphic animal spot placement prints. They jumped on fringed minis, liquid dresses, and soft shirt dresses with streamers.
When he wasn’t destroying the classics, he distilled them down to gasoline: the cut-out suits and pants fit him like a second skin, and were better suited to the gym than roaming the city.
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