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The very first week of online Parisian fashion starts

 


The very first week of online Parisian fashion starts on Monday with the world of lavish fashion shows plunged into an existential crisis by the coronavirus.

The weeks of haute couture and men’s fashion in Paris are combined into one, with labels that make films to present their clothes instead of organizing sometimes extravagant shows.

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The virus has not only made the traditional gateway format – where a few hundred globetrotters are crowded into an overheated and overheated room and beaten with loud music – temporarily untenable for health reasons. It has also caused unprecedented access to introspection within the industry and has led designers generally opposed to conflict to call for a revolution that is slowing down its fast pace.

Some even say that the seasons – the framework on which the entire fashion calendar has been anchored – should be completely swept away.

Flamboyant Gucci designer Alessandro Michele cut his catwalks from five to two a year as Saint Laurent pulled out of Parisian women’s fashion week later this year.

Its creator Anthony Vaccarello wants to give his rhythm, an idea hitherto taboo become a rallying cry for many other creators.

Belgian compatriot Dries Van Noten – the revered “king of engravings” – also heads one of two broad-based coalitions calling for radical reform to simplify the industry and make it “more environmentally and socially sustainable” “.

There is so much rebellion in the air that the venerable French brand Hermès has taken precedence over men’s shows – which only start on Thursday – by releasing its film on Sunday.

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In a typically chic offering filmed by French director Cyril Teste, the team and the technicians played the main roles with the models.

Designer Véronique Nichanian is adjusting a light blue striped jacket and asks her model to put her hand in her pocket.

Stripes are the great thing about Hermes for men in spring and summer, as well as its traditional leather of course.

“I like change,” said Nichanian, capturing the mood that broke the rules of the moment. “I always try to renew things and even if the change panics me as much as it stimulates me, I prefer that the anxiety starts again.”

Dior called on heavy artillery for its haute couture parade, which should be the highlight of Monday.

Italian director Matteo Garrone, who took the glamor from gangster life in “Gomorrah” and “Dogman”, may not seem like the obvious candidate for making a film about dream handmade dresses that can take thousands hours of painstaking work.

But Maria Grazia Chiuri de Dior – the first woman to head the iconic label – told AFP that times were not normal.

“The creation of this collection was very complex. From the start, it was clear that a real show would not happen. So we had to find something really dense and creative,” she said.

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Italian Maurizio Galante also took cinematic inspiration for his show earlier Monday.

“This is a great opportunity for us to reach a wider audience,” he said.

“And with a movie, people are also likely to be more focused on the footage rather than who is sitting in the front row,” he added curtly.

Haute couture is the prerogative of the super-rich and film and music stars.

Only the richest women can afford complex and tailor-made creations, which are only presented in the French capital.

Rising Vietnamese designer Xuan-Thu Nguyen, who was invited as a guest in the ranks of the couture elite, told AFP that she was using her “artistic video” as a teaser to attract people in his creative universe.

“If you have nothing, not even electricity, you can still create,” she said.

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