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Review: Goat Mountain Pizza serves some of the best slices in Bellingham

Review: Goat Mountain Pizza serves some of the best slices in Bellingham

The wail of the Vespa echoes in the air of Via Crescenzio. The setting sun seems to paint the shadow of Castel Sant'Angelo on the other side of the wide street. Nestled in the small basket on your handlebars is a white box. In the white box? A slice of hot pizza. Life is beautiful.

Well, it would be better if any of the above were actually true. Instead, I'm outside Goat Mountain at 215 W. Holly St., and the closest thing we have to Castel Sant'Angelo is the Granary building. The name Goat Mountain Pizza should induce a sense of deja vu for those of you who don't spend a lot of time downtown. Brought to you by the folks behind Black Sheep, this is actually the second iteration of the restaurant, and they've been back for about a year now after high demand.

The exterior of Goat Mountain Pizza on West Holly Street. (Cocoa Laney/Cascadia Daily News)

To be frank, the space isn't particularly inspiring. But that's not necessarily a problem, because they don't market themselves as much more than a place to come and eat pizza. This isn't their original location either, they were just across the hall in a very small but bustling space that is now home to The Foxhole. However, it is a much larger site, which I believe is more suited to the desired level of production.

Goat Mountain serves a pizza reminiscent of focaccia: thicker than a typical pizza crust, but still traditional in style, called pizza al taglio. This is often called Roman style, and many small restaurants in Rome actually serve pizza this way. Pizzas are typically cooked in large sheets and reheated immediately after the customer orders a slice, often cut with scissors to a customer-specified weight.

It's basically Roman fast food, something quick and usually quite cheap. Goat Mountain offers slices of its six pizzas on the regular menu, an unusual practice in that most local pizzerias only offer cheese or pepperoni slices if they even make them. If you can't find something that tickles your fancy on their slice menu, you can order a full-size pizza with the toppings of your choice.

The Goat Mountain Salad provides a refreshing contrast to pizza without skimping on flavor. (Cocoa Laney/Cascadia Daily News)

As part of my New Year's resolution to eat healthier, I started with the eponymous Goat Mountain salad. Crunchy apples, deliciously candied nuts, quinoa and tangy bites of pickled red onions were the stars of the show, proof that even the prettiest green salad doesn't taste much. This is a very tasty salad and I found myself continuing to eat it between bites of pizza, which should be taken as a major compliment from a guy who doesn't really like salad. At $14, I still felt like it was again a decent value proposition, very impressive on my part.

The first slice I tried today was a pepperoni and sausage ($6). The dough was just as I remembered it, soft with just a bit of chew as you reach the bottom. The sauce is incredibly tangy and umami, with a taste similar to fresh pasta sauce. The pepperoni was also very good, but the real standout here is the sausage. Slightly spicy and incredibly crispy, you can tell it didn't come out of a bag but rather fried on site. This reaction from Maillard does not lie.

The cheese pizza ($4.50) is just that: a cheese pizza! And what a cheese pizza it is. The mozzarella is plentiful and gooey, in a way reminiscent of a cheese you might have seen in an '80s Pizza Hut commercial. While this installment doesn't win any awards for creativity, it shines in the basics, and I always have an admiration for a kitchen that presents the basics with the same level of care as it crafts the high-value items.

Speaking of highfalutin, the goat cheese and hummus pizza ($5) seems to have stolen a basket of random shoppers at Whole Foods. This is an interestingly textured slice due to the slightly grainy hummus and the mix of Mediterranean vegetables and sliced ​​olives. Some might say it's a flatbread, not a pizza. Others might say this is a level of pedantry that would earn me angry emails and curses against my lineage. Either way, if you love a good mezze platter, order with confidence.

The new Goat Mountain elevated space is located between Foxhole and Black Sheep in downtown Bellingham. (Cocoa Laney/Cascadia Daily News)

And finally the potato and bacon ($5.50). Hail to the King. Why don't more places sell potato and bacon pizza? With a flavorful white mushroom sauce and white cheddar, this slice bites. Tender potatoes and savory smoked bacon are a combination forged on the sunny slopes of Mount Olympus, snatched from the gods and gifted to us undeserving mortals. But unlike fire, the price is only $5.50, not your liver. It is – and was – a claim to fame for Goat Mountain pizza, new and old, and represents a style that is spectacularly loved but never seems to be kept on menus. As I recall, Fiamma (pizza, not burger) has a pizza topped with potatoes, as does Vn, but Goat Mountain offers the most bang for your buck for a tasty, potato-saturated slice.

So, are they as good as I remember? Yes. Yes they are. Goat Mountain wisely didn't change the formula they had before. Bellingham is relatively devoid of places to get a single slice of pizza. The fact that it's a bit more elevated and served with a menu with starters and beer makes it an incredibly appealing place for a light lunch or dinner. While Goat Mountain may be a Canadian peak, Goat Mountain Pizza has rightfully reclaimed its place as a staple in the Bellingham pizza scene.

Goat Mountain Pizza is open at 39 a.m. Tuesday, Thursday, 11:30 a.m. – 10 p.m. Friday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m. at 215 W. Holly St.., You are. 103. Information:

Mark Saleeb is a big food lover. Find him at




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