Entertainment
Rotating sushi restaurants have finally made their way to Cincinnati
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Big night at Hyde Park Plaza, I joked to my wife, Amy, as we walked across a sunny parking lot toward Kawa rotating sushiwhich capitalizes on a concept that has existed for decades in Japan and the coastal United States before finally arriving in Cincinnati.
Neither of us had ever set foot in a rotating sushi restaurant. So when we found ourselves with a babysitter and a rare date night, we figured we might as well give Kawa a try. It opened in Symmes Township last year and opened a second location on the Oakley plaza on June 1.
Sitting at our booth, we watched an assortment of sushi, nigiri, and sashimi roll down a conveyor belt that looked like a miniature version of the ones you’d find in an airport baggage claim. A touchscreen lets you order specials like ramen, teriyaki chicken, or fries, which arrive on a miniature train or monorail that looks like something out of Mr. Rogers’ Neighborhood. A server adds up the bill based on how many plates you’ve taken.
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I shamelessly took everything that came my way: tuna nigiri, shrimp tempura rolls, dragon rolls, and sweet potato rolls. Disturbed by my gluttonous behavior, Amy put a stop to it, demanding that I take a break.
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I felt a little ashamed. But as I digested my food, I realized that Kawa was something different for us. While our date nights typically center around cocktails and big, expensive, multi-course dinners in Over-the-Rhine or Northern Kentucky, here we were, sitting in a mall sipping club sodas (Kawa doesn’t serve alcohol) among a sea of college students and 20-somethings looking for a cheap night out.
In my Gen X brain, it reminded me of the crowds I used to see at Perkins at 1 a.m. in the '80s or Anchor grid in the 90s. Given that Kawa is open until 10:30 p.m., it almost feels like a late-night option in these post-COVID days when there are so few left.
After posting a photo of my sushi haul, someone asked, “Novelty or quality value?”
I guess it depends on how strict you are. No, it doesn't. Jiro Ono Level sushi. You will not be dream about it “After. But I think it's as good and fresh as anything I've had at most local sushi restaurants. The great thing about Kawa is that it's fun, it's affordable and it's an experience worth having. I'm so happy,” Amy said as she sipped her green tea and watched the trains go by.
Kawa Revolving Sushi Locations
- 11381 Montgomery Road, Symmes Township
- 3880 Paxton Ave., Oakley, inside Hyde Park Plaza, 513-818-8338.
Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi's favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati.Find more of his recent culinary writings here.
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