Entertainment
With a pinch of something, this pizzeria could shine
Some restaurants you really want to like.
This is especially true when they are bright and trendy, with atmospheres unique to the area, and provide food that is not present elsewhere where they are located. Double that when they are in downtown neighborhoods. I am a downtown freak.
I really wanted to like Mr. 01 Extraordinary Pizza.
It's all there: it's a cheerful, open, stylish and spotless place, with a sizeable dining room and a street-side eating area at the front. You can watch the pizzas being prepared and cooked at the back, and goodness knows the people working there are busy. It's a popular place, the only remaining pizza place in inner-city Melbourne.
Pizza and its derivatives (calzoni) are what Mr. 01 offers, along with salads and a burrata bar; you won't find steaks, pasta dishes or anything else you'd normally find here, and it's good for Mr. 01 to stick to what it (apparently) does well.
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We have been there four times, with a certain uniformity in our orders: salads, Caprese and others; pizzas; a calzone.
You start with warm, lightly salted, crusty flatbread, which comes in a folded brown bag, and it's really delicious, with a sprig of rosemary stuck in for a bit of fragrance.
The Caesar salad ($10.99), like the five others Mr. 01 offers, is huge, probably too much for a single diner, and it was really cold, fresh and quite enjoyable, though it's by no means the Caesar salad you'd expect from a high-end restaurant, with eggs, Worcestershire sauce and anchovies thrown at the table.
The caprese ($13.99) was a pretty sight, with slices of fior de latte, tomatoes, an above-average balsamic vinaigrette and shredded basil. The fact that it was served on a battered wooden board particularly annoyed one diner, who happens to be a respected chef, as did the scant amount of basil and the subpar (or red) tomatoes.
I agreed. Forget the boards, Brevard restaurants; they are too difficult to clean and tend to warp and look awful after prolonged use.
On our first visit, we opted for one of Mr. 01’s signature 13-inch star pizzas ($18.99). In this case, it was topped with olives, mushrooms and ham, and a crust folded over chunks of ricotta. It was okay, with flavor coming mostly from the meat; the gimmick, which has been around in Italy for years, didn’t help.
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To Mr. 01’s credit, though, is that its crust, which is a bit thinner than flatbread, has a delicious texture and flavor. That was true of the pizzas we ordered on our last visit, a Bella Margherita ($16.99) and a cheese pizza with prosciutto di Parma ($14.99 plus $4.99) that our Italian-trained chef wisely ordered baked with the pizza and not applied to the finished pie.
Neither pizza had any particular flavor; they were completely bland, save for the saltiness of the prosciutto. No one expected a spicy sauce, but this one was more than basic: no rosemary, no oregano, nothing. A little precious basil garnished the Margherita, which also lacked cheese. In fact, it tasted like Hunts sauce poured over that decent crust.
I opted for the small plain calzone ($18.99), which was pleasantly light on the outside and with a chunk of warm mozzarella inside, another underperformer.
For the third time in a row, we had a Nutella pizza ($8.99), which has its chocolatey charms, although it's hard to eat more than one slice. It's a brilliant idea, though.
That's it. There's nothing wrong with Mr. 01 Extraordinary Pizza that a pinch of something or other can't fix, and it's always clean, cheerful, and charming. Because we'd like to update this review, we'll be back.
Lyn Dowling is a freelance food and lifestyle writer based in Melbourne.
Mister 01 Extraordinary Pizza
Two and a half stars
Address: 635 E. New Haven Ave., Melbourne
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Call: 321-455-5058
Online: www.mistero1.com/melbourne
Other: Beers and wines; vegetarian dishes; outdoor seating
About our reviews
Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY critics. Reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account the quality of the restaurant's food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating below three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and found to be unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.
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