Finally, Dior Men’s Artistic Director Kim Jones, who last week added Fendi women’s clothing to his design assignment, took home the International Men’s Clothing Designer of the Year award. His innovations in men’s tailoring and his ability to translate subcultural obsessions to mass audiences have earned him rave reviews in the fashion world; more than five million people have tried to buy his Air Dior sneakers.
Even outside of the awards for menswear designers, it was a male dominated winning lineup, with Christopher John Rodgers, the beloved young designer whose dresses merge cool Ralph Lauren with Cinderella whimsy, winning the Emerging Designer Award, and Pierpaolo Piccioli scored International Women’s Clothing Designer for his stunning work at Valentino. Gabriela Hearst won the Women’s Clothing Designer of the Year award, beating The Row, Brandon Maxwell, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford. (Ford was also nominated for its men’s clothing.)
As reported on Twitter, only 16% of the winners this year were women. Perhaps the efforts to diversify prices have opened up a difficult new place, but more likely, it reflects a difference between the wants and needs of male and female fashion designers. Crowning Hearst, whose work suggests a more streamlined version of Phoebe Philos Celine, with an incredibly luxurious emphasis on sustainability, suggests that perhaps female designers, at the moment, are more interested in connecting with the inner life of their carrier. His men, now, making the big splashing gestures. This is especially true in female-focused spaces like tailoring, blockbuster handbags and perhaps staging the next big revolution in clothing by shaking the conservative uniform of costume! Are men just having more fun? The awards herald the start of New York Fashion Week, followed by the Global Parade Marathon. Maybe get some answers.
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