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How Martine Rose built the latest subcultural fashion brand

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Of course, some people will never know all of the trends that arguably started with Rose. This would frustrate many designers. Your work is one of the most influential of the last decade, and yet you remain something of an underground darling. But for Rose? Meh. And that makes her that rare and special thing: in the age of fashion where everything is for everyone, it remains a subcultural brand. Some of his weirder pieces attract only a few and that is his intention. I never really wanted to be part of a big thing, she said last year. Not everything that has been going on since I was little has really appealed to me.

It’s almost impossible running a successful fashion business today without the backing of famous musicians or actors, but Martine Roses’ relationship with the celebrity is unusually organic, like her relationship with Drake. the Lost lionesses the film is the second Roses project to take place in a virtual world by Martine Roseon the cinema website, you wander through a quintessentially British metropolis of metro stops and storefronts, which then leads you into an underground amphitheater, where the film is played against a brutalist wall. This debut project, What We Do All Day, took viewers to a digitally rendered UK real estate project, where, in three live performances held throughout the day, the camera zoomed in on live streams of ordinary people. spending their day indoors as the skirt fanatic daddy Mark Bryan, DJ Big Youth and … Drake.

God, what a darling! Rose said, a little amazed. I just love him. They first met on her first Nike project, then she tracked down his number and texted him, and he was just like Yeah! Sure! He’s a longtime fan of the brand, and his pop-in was the perfect fusion of their two sensibilities, which share a certain, well, sensitivity. It was just suddenly in the studio, directly on your computer, live. Was it really Drake? a friend of mine texted me while this was happening. It was so laid back, so subtle. So out of the blue, happy to be underground. Therefore Martine Rose.

Maybe what draws Drake to Rose is that at the center of all this coolness, Roses is an abundant warmth, a feeling of tenderness. This is the soul of the Roses brand, which she has built quietly and steadily over the past fifteen years, with a three-year stint as a menswear consultant for Demna Gvasalia during her early years at Balenciaga, from 2015. (The unicorn of the fashion professions, right ?, she says.) If Balenciaga is a billionaire empire, Martine Rose is a family business. Her first entry into fashion was a brand launched with a longtime best friend, Tamara Rothstein, who is now Roses’ go-to stylist; to complete their quartet, Chua Har Lee, a shoe designer responsible for the Roses moccasins, and Meera Sleight, a textile developer and designer. They aren’t officially part of the team, it’s exactly something a little more unique and closer than that. They contribute, consult and inform so much about the collections because they are so close to me all the time, Rose said last year.

It’s like when you first left school [as a kid] and you’ve always been a stranger and then suddenly you find your people, Rose continued. So when I say I never wanted to belong, I always wanted to belong to a certain group, and when I found these girls, I felt like I found my group.

Roses clothing is the product of rigorous design experimentation. It’s a classic in that its changes in vision mostly occur through changes in figure. She helped perfect the tall figure at Balenciaga, taking it from the reverent Margiela length of the Gvasalias years at Vetements to something beefier, scarier, more reminiscent of the strongmen of the Georgian upbringing of the class. worker of Gvasalias (Rose, like Gvasalia, is Georgian Orthodox), or the bouncers outside the clubs and rave warehouses that Rose grew up idolizing. (The fact that the form is still spreading to different levels of the fashion ecosystem in fast fashion and pop culture, for example, is a sign that she’s found something really odd, and therefore excellent.)

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