What makes a city of fashion, a city of fashion? It seems that New York, London, Milan and Paris were the conquering capitals of the industry. Yet luxury homes take a trip to a different place, a place that makes people wonder where the roots of fashion are heading. Because luxury houses have docked in Venice.
The capital of northern Italy has been a point on the map for the latest fashion shows. Earlier this summer, Rick Owens showcased his Spring / Summer 2022 collection on the sunny beach of Lido di Venezia, a location not so foreign to the creative director who also resides on the Venetian island and used the seaside destination as a backdrop. for its previous pandemic breeding projections. . And this week again, Anthony Vaccarello chose the aquatic landscape to present the Saint Laurent Menswear 2022 collection while Pierpaolo Piccioli staged the Valentino Haute Couture Fall / Winter 2021 collection in Gaggiandre, one of the largest production sites of the city. Both houses have also planted Venetian seeds in their collections, with Saint Laurent fusing elements of Italian masquerade into 70s rock n ‘roll signatures and Valentino paying homage to the city’s thriving art scene. It seems that the original French and the expatriate French have changed their minds.
The discussions around Venice come as no surprise. Well known for its dreamlike aura and rich history, the city has been a hotspot for tourism. Yet the sudden gravitation of fashion to the city was not expected either. What prompted houses to switch from traditional concrete capitals to slow-paced landscapes?
A place to look would be the heart of Venice art, a facet that has inspired and taken root in the Saint Laurent and Valentino collections. The Venice Biennale, an institution that embraces established cultural events, crept into Vaccarello’s vision; Doug Aitken, winner of the Internal Prize of the Venice Biennale 1999, was in charge of the reflective ensemble of the show. Meanwhile, Piccioli called on 16 artists for his collection, turning their work into traveling exhibitions as a telltale sign that art and fashion are closely linked. From now on, the latter follows in the flourishing footsteps of art.
The floating city is also perhaps symbolic for its serenity, romance and escape (for what better form does it take if not located on a city surrounded by calm canals). For obvious reasons, messages fueled by the pandemic have been hard to avoid in collections, showing up in pieces that reflect burdensome loneliness, difficult times and progressions towards an optimistic future – Venice has been able to translate these emotions.
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Yet the arrival of fashion in Venice may also pose an imminent problem as designers flee to the city for the return of in-person screenings. It comes at a time when the city fears over-tourism as the borders begin to reopen and enforce measures, including a cruise ship ban, to address environmental bottlenecks (which has not gone unnoticed by Vaccarello who celebrated nature on the track). But more shows attract more people, even if that includes celebrities, designers and the fashion elite. It could be the thing the city is trying to get away from. Oh, the fashion paradox.
Does all of this signal a new fashion hub on the horizon? Only time and a little Venetian magic will tell.
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