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Still the showman, Thom Browne stages an elegant extravaganza

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When designer Thom Browne left New York Fashion Week four years ago to start showing his brand in Paris, it left a hole in the New York calendar. No designer tells stories with their clothes the same way, creating fashion shows that are more like elaborate theatrical productions.

Never content to simply use his wares on a regular track, Browne has long created intricate and mystical universes, often evoking centuries past: a strange cathedral, an operating theater of an 18th century hospital, a tiled swimming pool filled with bathers. And his characters often seemed to come from another planet.

Returning to New York this season – albeit temporarily – he stayed true to that tradition, putting on a Saturday night show that told the story of a big old house, a magical garden and statues coming to life.

He said he wanted to focus his spring 2022 collection – men’s and women’s clothing – on American crafts. Her collection explored classic suits – with twists like missing pieces, asymmetrical sleeves, and various men’s skirts – and also featured women’s tulle designs in the trompe-l’oeil style (literally, trick the eye.)

Among the guests were famous Browne fans: NBA player Russell Westbrook, wearing one of Browne’s iconic skirts; actors like Dan Levy, Hailee Steinfeld and MJ Rodriguez; and skier Lindsey Vonn.

As guests entered a dark theater space in the far west of Manhattan, they gathered around a huge rectangular garden in the middle of the room. Before the show started, Browne emerged to ask for a minute of silence in remembrance of September 11th.

Browne made a name for himself creating men’s suits – distinctive shrunken suits, preferred by LeBron James, or more recently skirt suits, like the one worn by Levy at the Emmys. But he’s also known for his couture-level designs for women. Her huge quilted and feathered gown for Cardi B at the 2019 Met Gala took 10 people to just hold her train.

There were more minimalist designs on display on Saturday, on a show Browne called “a tribute to American designer tailoring and athletic wear.” It opened with a couple of cyclists with 19th century style horse heads biking around the room – nothing too unusual for Browne.

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