When Kristen Stewart wore pale jade-colored Chanel pants under a dress at the Venice film festival last week, comments the Instagram page of Stewarts stylist Tara Swennen included: she looks great but looks like she is wearing pajamas. Chanel really?
But now, as normal life emerges, the western style of shalwar kameez appropriation has become the first post-pandemic trend. Nicknamed the double duty by Harper’s Bazaar, the silhouette, which was also seen on the runways at Louis Vuitton and Fendi, speaks of our hybrid lives and the liminal state we still find ourselves in when it comes to thinking about our clothes after 18 months of pandemic.
With the scars that the pandemic has left on society, we are going to see extreme contradictions occur in the marketplace in our approach to shopping and apparel, said Lorna Hall, director of fashion intelligence at the forecaster. of WGSN trends.
Color expert Joanne Thomas of Coloro adds: Low-risk consumers favor comfort, value per garment and versatility, which speaks volumes about the appeal of the dual-use trend.
Fashion historian Professor Alison Goodrum believes the trouser dress serves to cover our bets as we reappear in the world of work. This allows us to bridge the gap between informal and formal clothing and begin to re-engage with tailoring and sashes in a relatively forgiving way. It’s a look that’s sort of a safety net, combining the practicalities of pants with the versatility of layering.
For fashion teacher Liza Betts, outfits refer to the border area between our underwear and our outerwear. She says the Stewarts outfit demonstrates the recent pull between our public and private beings and the boundaries that separate areas of our family and work life are becoming less and less clearly defined.
Even before the pandemic changed our shopping habits, outfit was a staple of fashion because its design was unexpected. The idea of wearing dresses and pants together rewrites the visual language of clothing and the way we normally put our outfits together.
In this scenario, the pants are no longer designed as simple separate pieces, but rather become combined garments with which to create new silhouettes and lines, explains Goodrum, [and] the same goes for the dress.
The combination outfit, which has been worn throughout fashion history by figures such as early women’s rights defenders Amelia Bloomer, Ginger Rogers, Gwen Stefani and others who challenged traditional roles gender, now means a new era of gender neutral clothing.
For Goodrum, it’s a sign that the post-gender plaster has arrived. When once, quite neatly, pants were considered men’s clothing and dresses were exclusively for women, there were always outliers that challenged that order, she says. Stewart’s look highlights the complexities of gender in modern life.
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