What was most surprising about this rebooted Fashion Week after 18 months of the pandemic was how little had changed. Sure, there were vaccination checks and masks and outdoor sites, but beyond COVID protocols, the trails looked very similar. Which is why Rachel Comeys’ performance on Saturday, with choreography by Beth Gill, was such a fun moment.
Comey often thought of the track differently. A season of dinner shows at Dustin Yellins Pioneer Works stands out in memory. They were back in Red Hook, Brooklyn, when no one was showing in Brooklyn, and they required full engagement in the evening, but if you went once you would come back. Katja Blichfeld, co-creator of High maintenance, was a regular guest. Rachel has an incredible instinct for people and you see it when you watch one of her presentations, Blichfeld told me. You look around the room and see people from the art world mingling with people from the dance world, downtown theater performers, journalists, rising stars alongside literal icons and a bunch of her friends on the way home and everyone makes sense together.
The designer presented her show, which celebrated the 20th anniversary (her first show was a men’s collection on September 8, 2001), as she curated the guest lists for Pioneer Works. An intergenerational team of dancers, artists, writers, actors, landscapers and stylists outnumbered the models. And it wasn’t a back-and-forth situation on the runway, either: costume-clad women scurried across the floor in Aeron chairs before sliding out of them as if falling asleep at a dance. board meeting; a few people in working clothes supervised the installation of a gallery; a few others slipped in and out of their clothes; and Waris Ahluwalia, wearing a separate denim, helped build a table.
Much more happened, by the way, before they all came together and in unison bowed left and right like living metronomes. As they were reflected, the variety of clothing became clear. The contrast of prints and jacquards was a scenario, as was the sparkle of the evening. Careful observers have noticed pieces from past collections, like a pen-and-ink comic book print circa fall 2019; this is because Comey is launching a resale section on their website with the help of Recurate. Ahluwalia and co. were on the trail because it added size options for men and gender non-conforming people.
Haute couture has always run the risk of feeling out of touch with real life, and even more so now that we are going through this crisis. Comey doesn’t have this problem. The real challenge of designing for the complicated, wonderful and difficult lives we all live now is what fuels our work. This showed in his inspired presentation.
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