BERLIN The physical reboot of Berlin Fashion Week took attendees from an abandoned building resembling a Chupa Chups in the city’s far south to a newly launched industrial-era creative hub in the north. And that suggested that the German capital had found a way forward without trade shows.
The pandemic wasn’t the only chaos to hit the German fashion industry last year. When some of the big shows, including Premium, Seek and Neonyt, announced their departure Berlin To kick off a new fashion week in the german financial center of frankfurt last summer, some fashion players saw berlin fashion week end.
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But the first physical edition during the pandemic allowed Berlin to play on its creative strengths. The shows had previously dictated the impractical lineup in January and July, often overlapping with the men’s and couture Paris parades, preventing an international audience from attending.
Outside the fair, Berlin Fashion Week was scheduled from September 6 to 12, between Berlin Photo Week, the International Literature Festival and Berlin Art Week, to potentially benefit from new audiences and convergence with other disciplines. Some 13 different formats focused on business-consumer dialogue. This time around, the traditionally hard-to-navigate convoluted schedule turned out to be the perfect setup for a myriad of niche proposals.
There is more space to develop new things and become an exciting new center. Throughout the week there have been 13 formats, many of which were new, so there’s a good chance there is something exciting. In the past, we didn’t have the right profile in the city, but now that neither dates nor content collide, Berlin may in fact become a hub for emerging talent, said Marcus Kurz, board member. of the Fashion Council Germany and co-initiator. at the Berliner Salon, with former Vogue editor-in-chief Christiane Arp, who kicked off the week at Kraftwerk Berlin, venue for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
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The show has established itself as the go-to showcase for German design in recent seasons and showcased 35 designers dedicated to sustainable driving, transparency and circularity, among others brands like artisanal jeweler Anna Auras, the brand of Lutz Morris and Rianna + Nina handbags, a branded item of clothing that revisits vintage luxury materials.
I made essential contacts with media and retailers through the Berliner Salon, and it was really good to be here after the period of isolation. For me, this is the most important platform for German designers, said Gisa Golpira, who launched her Dsseldorf and Berlin-based sustainable jewelry brand Golpira to showcase in 2014 and is stocked in stores across Paris, Tokyo and New York, including Bergdorf Goodman.
Simultaneously, the Fashion Council Germany launched the Senate-sponsored Studio2Retail pop-up store in the soon-to-open Alhambra department store, featuring 29 local designers. Considering that I started shortly before the pandemic and have been operating primarily online until now, it was a great experience to be in direct contact with customers and to exchange ideas with people. others in the industry, said participant Janina Waschkowski of Nove, a premium label with an elegantly fitted collection designed for women during and after pregnancy.
Along with celebrities like Danny Reinke, Kilian Kerner and Marc Cain, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week saw Austrian designer Florentina Leitner’s debut collection, Hamburg-based label Fassbender’s runway premiere and LML Studio a highlight of the week.
Lucas Meyer-Leclre of LML Studio showcased a collection of 33 unique looks from Berluti, Dior for men, Herms and vintage clothing that he calls re-adjusted luxury. The looks had the aesthetic of bourgeois fabrics torn to reveal the bones of the couture, finished with paint on top. The Saint-Martin Center graduate was a creative assistant for Chanels Head of Textile and Textile Designer at ISA in Milan and London before moving to Berlin to work with artists. There he began to make clothes for himself.
I had all these fancy clothes that didn’t fit in this town anymore and I cut them up and turned them around, too, because it just doesn’t make any sense to me to have the same all over the world whether you are at Tokyo or Paris, he said. The label quickly gained attention, the late Stella Tennant being the first to wear an LML Studio jacket after spotting Meyer-Leclre during a Chanel sewing parade. The young designer is already working with various collaborators, including Berlin vintage store Halleluja, London-based bespoke shirt maker Budd and designers like Stefano Pilati and Dumitrascu.
However, he does not intend to produce conventional collections, but rather wants to share the craft: skills are meant to be shared and ideas are made to be stolen and distorted. Not everyone can afford luxury clothes, but everyone can take a pair of scissors. I want to show others how to do it with my shows and my presentations, he told WWD.
Fan of GuillaumeThe exhibition took place at Wilhelm Hallen, a new creative center initiated by the Canadian-German design manufacturer Bocci in the northern outskirts of Berlin. Between the bones of the 19th century iron foundry and the artwork of Sylvie Fleury and Julius von Bismarck installed for Berlin Art Week, Fan presented a cheerful collection of classic costumes, coats and dresses with neat cuts in tones blue and beige, juxtaposed with evening wear. with rich sequins, floral brocade and psychedelic prints, a balance between what we need and what we want, according to the designer.
Another spark from the outskirts came from the Reference Festival which occupied an abandoned pop architect building called Bierpinsel in the 1970s. The two-day festival, open to the public, was co-hosted by DJ Bill Kouligas and his label PAN and the Schinkel Pavillon art space. The main program included musical and artistic installations, a parade by Richert Beil and contributions from labels Rudi Gernreich, Phipps and Carhartt WIP.
Highsnobiety launched the Berlin, Berlin Prize, awarded to Kasia Kucharska, a graduate of the city’s University of the Arts.
To conclude the week, Fashion Positions at the former venue of the Bread & Butter Tempelhof fair bridged the gap between Fashion Week and Art Week. Initiated by Position Art Fairs director Kristian Jarmuschek and designers Mira von der Osten from Cruba and Olaf Kranz from Brachmann, the fashion group’s presentation at the art fair combined art and fashion to attract artistic audiences and sell the designers’ collections at the art fair. Along with well-known German names like Esther Perbandt, Lou de Btoly and Uncommon Matters, Fashion Positions also shines the spotlight on new arrivals with its own award. Last year’s winner, Kunsthochschule Weiensee graduate Laura Gerte, presented a remarkable collection designed in collaboration with the Berlin-based party collective Multisex.
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