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Dua Lipa parades Versace, Prada resists normality | WJMN

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MILAN (AP) Milan Fashion Week opened its third day of preview shows for next spring and summer against a backdrop of thousands of young environmental protesters calling on the industry on Friday for its wasteful and polluting ways.

The question hanging over fashion week is whether, after 19 months, the coronavirus pandemic has brought about real change in a system that has revolved around four ready-to-wear cycles per year, plus cruising and tailoring. Yes, the shows are socially distanced and fewer publishers are admitted than ever. But with companies rushing to restore sales to pre-pandemic levels, it begs the question: are deeper changes really underway?

Placards during the climate march in the heart of Milan urged Dress the change, a slogan aimed at the second most polluting industry after energy. Everyone wants to be hot, but Earth is not one of them, read another sign.

Some highlights from the Friday shows:

PRADA DISCONSTRUCTS EVENING OUTFIT

Prada returned to the runway live for the first time since February 2020, when the creative partnership between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was announced and just as Italy detected the first locally transmitted cases of the new coronavirus.

Fans took to the sidewalk outside the Fondazione Prada showroom and contemporary art exhibition space to greet VIPs and influencers, as old-fashioned rituals resumed.

Inside, masked editors checked with a health pass sat at a social distance that left plenty of room to breathe. Another show was held simultaneously in Shanghai, with images of the obscured skyline being shown in the Milan showroom.

The collection, the third of the Prada-Simons era, was a deconstruction of traditional evening wear – trains, corsets and evening dresses – as a study of sensuality and revealing the female form, the designers said in show notes.

Simons lamented the unreality of an evening gown as beautiful as it is, and it sure is that many dresses have spent the pandemic hanging, unannounced, in closets.

These clothes can get complicated: evening dresses, historical costume. We want it to be simple, easy and modern, said Simons.

The couture silk mini-skirts trailed long sashes, sometimes left floating. More formally, the skirts sported full tuxedo tails. They were worn with sweaters, distressed leather bomber jackets and sleeveless blouses with black and white prints laced up for a punk feel.

The dresses were cinched at the waist and left open at the back in a way that suggested the Prada V logo, while the skirt had a deep inverted V slit. Leather straps over the bare biceps completed the look.

The knits were soft, with breastplate or corset details, finished with the same leather bicep straps. The knit mini tunics were cinched at the waist and worn over matching shorts

The color scheme ranged from navy blue and black to cotton candy pink and canary yellow. The magenta accentuated the acid green, which in turn complemented the feminine pink. The shoes had a low, cantilevered heel, giving a feeling of suspension.

For Prada, it is a mistake to talk about the show in terms of returning to normal.

We have learned that we are engaging in fashion with a much larger world, Prada said in the show’s notes. After all that has happened, how can you just go back?

THE ENERGIZED TRACK OF VERSACE

Donatella Versace injected energy into Milan Fashion Week with a parade and a front row filled with stars, and a strong collection of fashion house codes: bright colors, safety pins and above all silky scarves.

British singer and emerging fashion icon Dua Lipa opened the runway in a bare-skinned black suit held up by colorful safety pins as her song Physical blew the room up and closed her in a liquid fuchsia skirt and corset .

In between, she was joined by Naomi Campbell, smiling and dressed in bright colors in a hot pink suit and orange shirt, Gigi Hadid in a comfy black latex dress with just a silky sheen of turquoise and pink, and Lourdes. Leon Ciccone, in a metallic silver dress.

The show opened with black suits and dresses with tiny flashes of color in pins and scarves that protruded from the hems and slits, with the colors becoming more and more daring until they burst in. a vivid palette of pink, aquamarine, foam green, acid green and yellow.

The feminine figure exuded confidence, with body-hugging dresses and skirts offering an array of skin-stripping ways with high slits on the skirts, pin-up tights, and revealing corsets or bras of abs. . The shoes included shiny satin wavy platform shoes.

Men’s fashion was more casual, with floral suits, sportier varsity jackets with mesh tops or shiny leather jackets paired with tight latex t-shirts and jeans.

Outside the Versace Hall, hordes of fans partied like it was 2019, waiting to catch a glimpse of the VIPs arriving.

Front row guests included Milan’s own fashion influencer-turned-entrepreneur Chiara Ferragni and her husband, singer Fedez, American influencer-turned-actress Addison Rae and actress Bella Thorne with her Italian boyfriend, the singer Benjamin Mascolo.

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Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, the creators of the Sunnei brand, invited the fashion public to don sunglasses through a white tunnel and gaze at the collection as the strobe lights flash.

The youthful collection was strong in layering, with long skirts worn over pants or grassy fringes emerging from Bermuda shorts. The proportions were mostly loose and oversized, with coats gathered at the waist to provide some definition. The bags were soft and large, or rigorously square.

Sunglasses, required in flashing tunnels, attached to the back of the head.

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