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Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Spring 2022

 


The best thing about Salvatore Ferragamos spring collection was the very Italian palette, from the distinctive mustard tones of Milan’s buildings to the weathered blues and pale pinks you might encounter while strolling through the historic sites of Florence. It was largely on the mark.

Dry fabrics, often paper, also kept Guillaume Meillands’ promise during a preview that it was a very summer collection, evoking the desert, or the hot and dry climates of the south of France. ‘Italy.

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Too bad the collection does not celebrate these promising ingredients. The clothes were often too simple for the show, or too delicate, especially all the short dresses with built-in panties.

In all fairness, Meilland, enlisted as Ferragamos’ menswear design director in 2016, has the herculean task of leading the design team through a tumultuous time that saw the departure of the creative director. Paul Andrew and General Manager Micaela le Divelec Lemmi. . Marco Gobbetti, current CEO of Burberry, is due to take over as Ferragamo’s CEO next year.

No wonder Meilland has let the Ferragamo archives, which include some 14,000 pairs of shoes, be his spiritual guide for the spring of 2022. His reflection on the brand yielded guiding phrases such as new formal and inventive crafts, which were spelled out on her moodboard, as well as with an abundance of fashion images from the 1960s and 1970s. An archival scarf depicting poppies on an animal print background was the main inspiration for the prints, which ended up being look muddy.

Outside inspiration was The Obscure Object of Desire, the 1977 film about a dysfunctional relationship with Carole Bouquet and ngela Molina.

Meilland described oriental touches, such as rolled toes on Dutch clogs in natural leather, and said he also wanted to convey a voluptuous sensuality.

All these ideas have not quite frozen. Let’s just call it a transitional collection with that bohemian, vaguely ’70s spirit popular this Milanese season.

Launch gallery: Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Spring 2022

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