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Prabal Gurung talks about having a career with big intention – WWD

 


To outsiders, Prabal Gurung’s career might seem like the epitome of American dream history. But the creator unveiled Monday evening the great intention associated with it.

During a question-and-answer session with Fern Mallis at 92Y, Gurung detailed his education in Nepal and his decision to go into fashion – studying in India, then New York. Activist on and off the catwalks, Gurung has repeatedly stressed the need to give visibility to the invisible. “We all know, in one way or another, what it feels like to be other. For me, as an immigrant, queer man of color, my existence and my visibility is something I have to fight [for] constantly. There are so many people from minority groups who are fighting for this and their struggles are even more so. And women, the fight they have to lead on a daily basis. Their decision to do what they want is up for grabs, ”he said.

The designer praised his early supporters like Sarah Jessica Parker, Demi Moore and Oprah Winfrey. Gurung has repeatedly referred to his mother, who raised him and his siblings after his parents divorced. Speaking of a bucolic, joyful and stimulating childhood, he spoke of being “constantly harassed” for being effeminate and for fighting back at the boys’ school he attended in Nepal. He said he often said to his mother, “I see my worth. The world just needs to catch up with him.

Gurung spoke of being petrified once when his mother caught him as a boy while he was wearing makeup, only to tell him, “That’s not the way to wear that lipstick.” . Let me fix it for you, ”Gurung said, wiping away a few tears. (Her mother now lives in her apartment building and they have breakfast daily and dinner weekly.) Michelle Obama was another supporter of her work and Gurung recalled how emotional her mother was to meet her.

In Nepal, fashion design was seen as a quest for “bored housewives”, so Gurung studied fashion in India and interned for Manish Arora. Asked why so few South Asian fashion designers have failed to expand their brands globally, Gurung said, “We sit here in the Western world thinking that the only definition of success is to do it in America or Europe. For many people, their home is sufficient. India is a big country and for many of them that is enough… for a very long time, aesthetically through our colonized lens, what we think is chic is always one sided. As the world opens up and becomes [more] global through social media and technology, we are exposed to ideas from different cultures and aesthetics. I think that will start to change.

After a seven-year sabbatical and extensive travel, prompted by a move to Australia for his first love, Gurung returned to Nepal, motivated by a few random views of Oprah Winfrey’s talk show, he applied to Parsons and has been accepted. After an internship with Donna Karan and his first job at Cynthia Rowley, he joined Bill Blass as a design assistant a year after the creator of the same name died in 2003. Describing the thoroughness used by leading European seamstresses company, Gurung said he saved a lot of older models (and Blass’s Rolodex) when the company was sold a few years later. Unsure if the Blass archives still exist, Gurung said, “I would love to own this business.”

The generosity of friends helped Gurung stage his first presentation. In business for over a decade, Gurung explained that he always believed in “matriarchal energy.” Look at the world we live in now. In the hands of the patriarchy, we find ourselves with the climate crisis, the economic crisis, the human crisis, xenophobia, police brutality – the list goes on and on. Growing up, we were taught to celebrate ruthless ambition, money at any cost… any idea that challenges these notions was seen as a girl, weak… cut off until now. The conversation we are having or should be having is about sustainability, vulnerability, accountability, visibility, inclusiveness, etc. we. It encompasses a woman, a man, a person or a world of Prabal Gurung.

After a career-changing WWD coverage, Gurung also caught the attention of Moore, who tweeted about the designer as one to watch, his thank-you tweet immediately drew hundreds of followers. It made him realize the power of social media and “for a very long time” he managed everything on his own. “It changed my life,” Gurung said.

During the pandemic, the creator played a vocal role in the Stop Asian Hate movement. “If you are a person of color, your invisibility is real. When the Asian hate attacks were happening, many people didn’t believe it at first. It hit the house very hard. They looked like my grandparents, my mother, my sisters, my brothers. I thought, ‘What [having] all these hits and followers for, if I can’t talk about it? ‘ The media didn’t cover it at first and we had to be in the foreground. “

Along with other designers like Phillip Lim and Laura Kim, Gurung spoke out publicly against what was going on. “It’s important that we did. Let’s face it, even in our industry, when those in power talk about diversity and inclusiveness, we are often completely ignored, ”he said. “It has become our responsibility. Our ancestors had come here to America for a living so that they could give us privilege and access. Now that we had the privilege and the access, we had to speak out of respect for them. That’s why we started talking, because if not we, who [would?]”

Gurung also spoke passionately about the foundation he created in Nepal to help victims of the 2015 earthquake. The designer has also blended feminism and patriotism to everyone in his collections, shows and messages. Overall, it is very important for the designer to take a stand in what he supports, what he shows, what he does and the choices he makes should reflect who he is as a person. “You have to understand that America has a ripple effect on what’s going on in the world. I have lived in different countries so I know that. I hold America in the highest regard, ”he said. (To that end, Gurung pulled out of hosting a New York Fashion Week show at Hudson Yards, due to developer Stephen Ross’ support for Donald Trump’s 2019 re-election campaign with a fundraiser. funds.)

After a potential investor asked Gurung at a meeting about his plans to celebrate diverse people, who are never represented the American way, saying, “You don’t look American. How are you going to define America? ‘ ”Gurung said. “I said, ‘You mean I don’t look white. I want you to know this – I am an American citizen. I came as an immigrant with a dream. I became a citizen. I started my business unemployed. I make 90 percent of my clothes in America. I am actively involved. I pay my taxes but it’s still not enough for you.

This led him to use his visibility and platform to examine what America looks like in his “Who Gets to Be American?” collection. “America is for me an idea, not a person, not a country,” he said to applause.

Most recently, Gurung teamed up with Lim, Kim, Ezra J. William and Tina Leung in the new “House of Slay” digital comic book series. “House of Slay is a place for everyone. It is a safe and inclusive space, ”he said. “It’s built on the idea that if individually we can create noise, collectively we can start a revolution. The first step in building a community of revolutionaries is to align with people with intention, integrity, and purpose, who believe the world is better when it’s colorful.

Sources

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