For a century, the Italian fashion house Gucci has made its reputation straddling dignified luxury and conspicuously marked consumption. While its handbags, shoes, and leather accessories have long been staples of understated silver, the company’s clothing lines and logo-saturated prints have a reputation as flashy status symbols. for the new aspirants and the successful.
These intersections are evident in Janty Yates’ costumes for Ridley Scotts House of Gucci. The film, which hits theaters on Wednesday, November 24, tells the story of the founding family of houses from the 1970s to the 1990s, and focuses not only on the rapid evolution of fashion during those decades, but also on internal clan battles for etiquette control. In real life, these fights and the tension between old and new money eventually erupted in the murder for hire of heir Maurizio Gucci, played by Adam Driver, at the behest of his ex-wife, Patrizia, played by Lady Gaga.
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Fashion-wise, the film is as epic as Scotts Gladiator or its medieval set The Last Duel, which premiered this fall, also in costumes from Yates. The couple first worked together on 2000s Gladiator, for which Yates won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design.
Gaga wears 54 different looks in House of Gucci, with nothing repeated in any of the sets. Not even the jewelry, Yates added.
In total, Yates estimated that more than 300 costumes were created for the film.
He’s very forward thinking and very costume sensitive, Yates said of Scott. It’s great because it’s very collaborative, and it’s a big help.
There were also extensive wardrobes created for Jeremy Irons, as patriarch in classic Rodolfo Gucci suit; Al Pacino as Maurizios’ sleeker uncle, Aldo Gucci; and an unrecognizable Jared Leto, who wears layers of dentures for his role as son of Aldos, the Gucci family’s black sheep (and clothing risk taker) Paolo Gucci.
The film also includes several scenes in Gucci boutiques with fully dressed mannequins and catwalk recreations by Gianni Versace, as well as Tom Ford’s iconic Fall 1995 Gucci collection that rekindled the house’s relevance after years of languor on the fringes of industry.
Yates was able to access the Gucci company archives for research and had many pieces recreated for Gaga, including a logo-covered pant set and logo blouse paired with a leather skirt. Yates also purchased clothes and accessories from vintage clothing dealers as well as fashion houses Alaa, Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino for the star.
The Gucci family is no longer involved in the fashion house since Maurizio Gucci sold his shares in the company in 1993. Kering, owner of Gucci Group, is managed by CEO François-Henri Pinault, husband of Salma Hayek , who embodies Bohemian Patrizias. -the clairvoyant in outfit Pina Auriemma in the film.
Both personally and aesthetically, Gagas Patrizia never fully integrates into the world of inherited wealth that she is married into in the film. The character’s lack of sophistication is shown at the start of the film when she asks Rodolfo if a portrait in the family villa of a woman painted in gold is by Picasso, when “it is obviously a Klimt”, said Yates said. It’s the kind of mistake a person raised around art or in privileged circumstances probably wouldn’t make, and it’s as despicable to the Guccis as any character’s fashion faux pas.
Patrizia is further presented as an outsider with her clothes, which are as luxurious and expensive as they are, always a bit too loud and slightly out of place with the more understated Savile Row costume worn by Rodolfo and Maurizio.
Gaga has been intimately involved in helping shape the appearance of her characters, which is not surprising, as she is an artist who so skillfully uses fashion on and off stage to define her public personality. She even suggested her Italian-American mother, Cynthia Germanotta, as inspiration for the character’s style.
LG (Lady Gaga) wanted to wear two necklaces, four bracelets, the biggest earrings, Yates said. The dresses were all in beautiful silk, but they were in animal print. Shes has a great body; the small pinched waist and breasts are still visible, her parts still wiggle. She (the character, Patrizia) knows what she’s doing and that she can sell physical attraction.
Among Yates’ favorite looks created for Gaga was Patrizia’s white lace wedding dress. Even for a formal wedding, it looks a bit too much like the rest of the characters’ wardrobes with its heavy appliqué pattern.
Letos Paolo, although born in the family, is also a fashion outsider with awkward tastes. The character wears corduroy costumes that he himself designed in the previous scenes and possibly nylon tracksuits with neon prints that were popular in the ’80s and’ 90s. Paolo has an enthusiasm for fashion that lasts. leads you to try your hand at designing your own collection.
Jared also liked him a lot, even though he spent six hours on prosthetics every day, Yates said of the actual Gucci brand ambassador. We had Cesare Attolini from Naples make all of his costumes, apart from the corduroys.
One of the film’s most revealing fashion moments takes place on the snow-capped slopes of St. Moritz when Maurizio appears in a white ski suit. Paola Franchi, Maurizio’s childhood friend played by Camille Cottin, also wears a white ski suit, commented on by Patrizia, which wears red and black.
For viewers, the costumes show how Patrizia will never be fully accepted in the Gucci world or even in her own wedding. For Yates and Scott, they are as essential to the success of the film as the performances.
Whether it’s dressing up characters in space in recent Alien movies or dressing Moses fleeing Egypt in Exodus, in projects with Scott, it’s always terrifying, Yates said. But you do your research and know the period before you start. Luckily Ridley and I have this shortcut, and we both lived through the 70s, 80s, and 90s.
“House of Gucci”(R) opens in theaters Wednesday, November 24.
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