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Virgil Abloh is remembered at Louis Vuitton fashion show in Miami – WWD

 


As the robin’s egg-blue sky turned deeper blue, then dove gray with darker cloud streaks, the Louis Vuitton Spring 2022 men’s collection cover show began – and what had was intended as an uplifting celebration turned into a tribute to the late designer Virgil Abloh, who died Sunday at the age of 41.

“Oh my God, this is the toughest speech I have ever given,” Michael Burke, chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton, told the hushed crowd of around 1,500 who had taken ferries from the mainland for a 30 minute ride. at a dock where the show was held (celebrities arrived by chic gray speedboats with the LV logo and the monogram stenciled on the side in blue with the numbers 7.2, representing the rehearsal of Abloh’s seventh show for the Mark).

Burke spoke fondly of meeting Abloh with Kanye West in Tokyo when fashion designer and A Bathing founder Ape Nigo introduced them; Burke then invited the two to intern at Fendi. Their relationship developed to the point where, by the time Abloh joined Burke at Vuitton, the CEO saw him as “a son” whose passion “was inconceivable to me … But I know through his work, his vision, his deep sense of humanity, the legacy of this great man will endure.

The schedule of events for the Monday and Tuesday preceding the show continued to evolve over the hours, with the initial plan for an in-store cocktail being abandoned in favor of one-on-one meetings on Wednesdays; the VIP dinner at Carbone turned into a friends of the house affair with no seats. The mood in the bustling restaurant was subdued and dark Monday night around 8 p.m., as a handful of famous guests like Luka Sabbat, Venus Williams, Yahya Abdul-Mateen II and Deacon Philippe sat down with friends for spicy rigatoni. , branzino and lemon cheesecake.

On the day of the show, however, the mood became much more vibrant, with attendees ready to honor and celebrate Abloh. Guests arrived in the afternoon at a marina, where platters of white chocolate flan and tuna tartare were handed out as white wine was sipped and people mingled. Many of the brand’s biggest clients were in attendance, decked out in a head-to-toe logo and plenty of color (in contrast, publishers and celebrities opted for black). Around 4 p.m., the boats embarked and left for the quay.

“It was a unique case, it was a pioneer,” photographer Juergen Teller said on the boat ride, iPhone in hand as he busied taking photos of the scene around him.

While docking at Miami Marine Stadium, a historic landmark designed by Hilario Candela in 1963, guests strolled the pier before the show’s start time at 5:30 a.m. at sunset. Vuitton had worked closely with the city and state to clean up the basin area, with 15 submerged or abandoned ships removed and 180 cubic meters of trash cleaned up. The barge where the show was held has been converted and 90 birch trees decorating the decor will be reused.

The crowd of Abloh’s many famous friends included Kanye West, Kim Kardashian West, Rihanna, A $ AP Rocky, Bella Hadid, Pharrell Williams, Tahar Rahim, Venus Williams, Joe Jonas, Ricky Martin, Jeremy Pope, 21 Savage, Joan Smalls , Jesse Williams and more. Ivanka Trump has even been spotted walking towards her seat.

“The first time I met him was in Paris,” said Maluma, wearing a long, shimmering metallic silver coat stamped with the LV logo. “His energy – he has a beautiful aura. A blue aura. The first time I saw him I met one of my biggest idols.

On Abloh’s impact in the fashion and culture space, Maluma said he has changed the world.

“For me as an artist, he really changed my way of seeing the world. Between music, culture and the fashion industry, it made me change my mind and it improved my vision.

“His legacy speaks for itself,” said Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God, who was supposed to be in New York City for the Footwear News Achievement Awards but flew to the event.

“It’s so sad what happened,” musician Rauw Alejandro said. “He inspired music and also culture. And as a younger generation musician, seeing GOATs doing great things, doing what they do, is truly inspiring. I am really sad about what happened and am here to celebrate life and culture.

“I met Kanye in Tokyo and Virgil was his assistant,” Silvia Venturini Fendi said before the show. “And Kanye said, ‘I want to come and do a stoge with you at Fendi’s.’ And then one day he called me and said ‘I’m in Rome, I want to find an apartment. I would love to work here and do a six month internship.’ They came and I thought it was a joke. But they took an apartment. They were coming to work, both of them, and then it was like ‘I’m leaving at 6’, asking for some kind of permission. , and I would go ‘where are you going, why are you going?’ and they were like ‘we have to play at 8 o’clock tonight,’ something like that. ‘

“It’s weird,” said Jonathan Anderson, who knew Abloh for being LVMH award judges and also a young designer for the giant luxury group. “It really makes you aware of mortality. “

As for Abloh’s impact, Anderson summed it up in one word: “Emergency. He had this urgency to do things that was remarkable. I will miss him. “

After the entry of the entire Arnault clan – led by Bernard Arnault but including his wife and all his children – the show began, a style parade that Abloh had shown by film in June but with 10 new looks, some worn by Kid Cudi, Quavo and Offset. The collection showcased many elements that Abloh had developed throughout his tenure with the brand – and proved, as Burke said, that the designer was a constant flow of ideas that he was hard to contain.

There were knit soccer jerseys bearing the Vuitton name; pleated or flared skirts; belted suit jackets, letter jackets and down jackets; long coats in everything from tie-dye and checkerboard patterns to highlights, loads of ’90s references and more. The shoes ranged from sneakers to padded boots, while bags came in styles ranging from tiny strap handbags and record cases to a humorous neon tie-dye fish-shaped backpack.

There were poignant moments throughout including the rising ropes leading up to the show and a red hot air balloon flashed like a beating heart to one of the songs which had a voice asking to be shown the way because ” I’m looking for a way to go. ”Abloh, after all, was a DJ with a lot of other things, and the music ranged from electronics to rap, from jazz to bossa nova.

In the end, the evening was perhaps best summed up by Abloh himself, whose voice was played before the show and during the finale. He said the inspiration for the show came from trying to rediscover childhood, as children always reach a point where “they reach a sense of wonder and stop using their minds and start using their imaginations. “.

With that, the lights went out and the hot air balloon came on again as a light show played out on the distant shore and waves of multi-colored lights shone through the stadium stands on the other side of the stadium. channel. Suddenly there was a flash of fireworks lighting up the sky – bursts of red, yellow and white rockets. After all, most kids love fireworks.

The crowd fell silent as they made their way to the after-party area, dominated by a 30-foot statue of a rainbow-colored Abloh holding an LV case and gazing at the hot air balloon and the sky.

Then a drone show lit up the now dark sky with the LV logo, a paper airplane shape and the letters VA.

The drones faded, then reformed to spell a simple declarative sentence: “Virgil was there. “

Sources

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