Art director Alessandro Sartori successfully combated digital fatigue with a spectacular video filmed at Oasi Zegna featuring models walking through the snow, the stunning sunset over the mountain ridges in the background.
Changing the point of view – emphasizing the concept of a road leading into the future that became Zegna’s signifier after the rebranding – interior shots and the city of Milan were juxtaposed against the Oasi, while the short footage ended with a special performance in front of the Duomo cathedral choreographed by Sadeck Waff who paid tribute to the 80 artisans who worked on the collection.
Shooting the video for five days in freezing weather was certainly no small feat, but Sartori managed to create a special moment for the small group of around 50 guests invited to Zegna’s headquarters on Friday.
Whatever the medium, the product remains the core and was meticulously developed as the designer came up with a beautiful and sophisticated collection, which was physically introduced and presented by Sartori at the Zegna showroom on a group of models and through an installation static at the end of the video.
For fall, which he said marked “a new aesthetic and a new chapter” for the brand, Sartori perfectly blended technical innovation, function and design with the most luxurious fabrics, such as Mongolian cashmere which will now be certified Oasi Zegna for total traceability. Durability continues to be a priority for Sartori, who have also used UseTheExisting branded gabardine.
Although deconstructed and flowing thanks to the lack of shoulder pads and lining, Zegna’s more relaxed one-button suits – with a new layered, hand-stitched lapel – were not out of place on mountain paths due of technical advancement and research that went into the materials.
Carrot-shaped pants were made of technically treated silk or cashmere that made them water-repellent and were padded with wool fibers; the rubberized leather was padded with jersey pile; cropped trapezoid coats were worn over technical silk inner shirts, and ripstop wool or sheepskin anoraks looked comfortable while being weatherproof.
Sartori insisted on “hybridization”, pointing out that “the definition of the category is obsolete”, no longer differentiating a jacket from an outer garment.
He layered the looks – jacket, bra and pants – in the same material in three different weights, in a way that he says “simplifies style”. To that end, the color palette was changed to eight colors that would allow for easy mixing and matching, from white, stone gray and black to chocolate brown, eggplant, brass and the now iconic vicuña. .
Knitwear, he said, was ‘the king of the season’, as he paraded chunky, knotty sweaters celebrating ‘the art of mending’ – global warming be damned.
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