After two years of missing the catwalks because of the you-know-what, last night at the opening night of Milan Fashion Week, Matthew Williams 1017 ALYX 9SM held a physical show at a century-old church in the Italian city. While it may have looked like the return to normalcy we’ve talked about so much over the past year, one look at the setup proved we weren’t there yet. Presented to a small, socially distanced audience in their mid-70s, a cautious approach was likely to see more of those choosing to hold physical shows in the middle of Europe. Omicron brings out the feeling of limbo that permeates our collective experience of everyday life. life was felt in the room.
It was also conveyed by the title Matthew chose for this season’s collection: Fade. I wanted to frame it in a way that conveys the idea that there’s this constant back and forth between a world we once knew and the world today, he said in a preview. the day before the show. Between normalcy and this surreal other life we live in.”
Rather than trying to design a collection that speaks directly to this existential ambivalence to cater to the appetites of an audience that doesn’t know if they’ll be in town or slumped on the couch next weekend, he and his team have opted for a more intuitive approach. I find it hard to think what other people think, he says. It may sound narcissistic, but I don’t really design clothes thinking about what other people would want. With my brand, that’s really what me and my team want to do this season. I only do what I want and what I find cool.
For AW22, that meant an update to the impeccably cut, tech-informed shapes that Matthew has established as the foundation of the brand since its inception Alyx, after all, is about evolution, not revolution. Familiar archetypes, whether branded staples or instantly recognizable, have been re-evaluated. Men’s trousers inspired by workwear silhouettes came in fabrics ranging from aubergine wools, pearlescent satins and buttery black leathers, while perfectly cut outerwear with metal clasp closures came in heavyweight cashmere and curly wool. Elsewhere, chunky jackets of thick sheepskin and thick, smooth PVC created heavy, broad-shouldered silhouettes, the severity of which was at times counterbalanced by the frou-frou camp of ostrich-feather collars and feminine glamor front-closing bustiers with trailing trains and a long-sleeved shift dress delicately embroidered with chain-stitch sequins.
On the footwear front, a major area of technological innovation for the brand, we saw the return of the injection-molded EVA foam Mono boot, this time with a raised insole, a testament to the brands pioneering new lasts of technologically informed craftsmanship as well as the introduction of a new single-toe silhouette inspired, believe it or not, by bunion wraps. As esoteric as it may seem, the ability to elevate such obscure but mundane references into a compelling, elegant, and cutting-edge proposition is both a testament to Matthew’s ability to examine today’s ecosystem around me and brand. , synthesize that together and offer it as today’s meal, he says. And the next season, well serve something different. I can’t wait to see you again in six months to see what’s on the menu!
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