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Milan Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada at Fendi




Milan Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada at Fendi

A Prada show dotted with Hollywood stars; menswear’s new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: everything you need to know about Milan Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2022

When it came to the A/W 2022 menswear season in Milan, aficionados at home — and those watching IRL in the Italian city — had an array of style heroes to choose from. At Prada, a host of actors emerged from a futuristic illuminated tunnel in its Fondazione Prada Deposito space, including Twin Peaks’ Kyle MacLachlan, Jeff Goldblum, dinosaur digger (and formerly unofficial Prada mascot), Moonlight Ashton Sander and Sex education’s Otis Butterfield. Meanwhile, at Dolce & Gabbana, the label wowed Gen-Z fans, with a performance by Machine Gun Kelly in a sequined suit.

As the 2022 A/W season was beset by the threat of Omicron and rising infection rates in Europe, a slew of giant and rising brands presented physical and online shows from the Italian capital. DSquared2 celebrated its comeback in person after a Covid-19-induced hiatus, and Prada presented its first physical menswear show under the creative co-direction of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Ermenegildo Zegna and MSGM favored a digital presentation, as did JW Anderson, the British brand which was originally due to present its first physical show in Milan – this will now take place in June 2022.

6 key takeaways from Milan Men’s Fashion Week A/W 2022

Classicism is back on the menswear menu

Jeff Goldbum walks in Prada Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022

Prada A/W 2022

Since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, designers have postulated about the future of the male canon, considering the relevance of the suit and the dress of relaxed silhouettes. At Prada, the Milanese label has turned this concept upside down, avoiding endless conversations around comfort and loungewear, in favor of a wardrobe firmly rooted in work. “The language of sartorial tailoring, a formality that confers importance,” reads the brand’s press release, of a collection that welded executive to utilitarian, with exaggerated leather trench coats, asymmetrical blazers accented with sheepskin armbands, haphazardly hued pants, and bright Boiler Suit garments. An essential accessory to change your vending machine? A triangle pattern coin purse attached to your belt loop.

At Fendi, Silvia Fenturini Fendi was also captivated by notions of classicism. The Roman house presented a “treasure of future legacies” that took on the elegance and sophistication of old-world silhouettes: gingham check tweed overcoats, cropped tuxedos, pilot jackets and cropped suits, imagined in raspberry, mocha, taupe and White. In a dandy flourish, baggy coats were pinned up with shearling bodices, buckled Mary Jane brogues with wristwatch straps and bags had evening proportions. Elsewhere, Laurence Steele of Aspesi was struck by archetypal silhouettes, combining finesse and function, while Brunello Cucinelli negotiated between different dress codes, presenting luxurious pieces ranging from pea coats to puffer jackets, incorporating super fine wools, shearling and Prince of Wales houndstooth.

Deep burgundy and bold blue: choose your favorite shade

ALYX 9SM 1017 show at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022

Brioni at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022

Top, 1017 ALYX 9SM A/W 2022. Bottom, Brioni A/W 2022

Tasty news for wine lovers: a deep burgundy has enlivened the Milanese catwalks, as evidenced by brands such as Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna and 1017 ALYX 9SM. Zegna’s meditations around the “new suit”, with a slightly rippling cut, relied on an organic palette, terracotta and tangerine, while 1017 ALYX 9SM – shown for the first time in Milan – was inspired lilacs, cherry reds and nudes. Elsewhere, ocean blues were favored, with Brioni’s Norbert Stumpfl creating bold suits, including double-breasted woolen day suits and striking silk-satin tuxedos in an exuberant turquoise.

Inspect your new errogen zone

Fendi show at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022

JW Anderson show at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022

Skin was a central element of the S/S 2022 runways and continues to take on an extrovert effect for fall. The erogenous zone of choice for the coming season? A sensual burst of breasts. At Fendi, this was demonstrated with heart-shaped cutouts on turtlenecks and cable-knit V-necks in cricket white and shimmering raspberry. At JW Anderson – whose digital runway reveled in party silhouettes, whimsical flourishes and a total surrender to weirdness, the chest was revealed in chunky loop weave knits and hula-hem cropped tops. hoop in bright colors of paint.

Shoulder Power

AlphaTauri Mobile Innovation Lab at Pitti Uomo 101

Ardusse F/W 2022

Designers didn’t care to play safe proportions for A/W 2022, coming up with striking strong-shouldered silhouettes that even David Byrne would be driven to. You’ll have to watch out for Prada’s work-inspired shoulder-pad trench coats when you’re in the office. Gaetano Colucci of Ardusse was also inspired by the strong shoulder. The brand’s collection has fluctuated from decade to decade, taking inspiration from ’70s ruffled prom shirts, grunge long-sleeved t-shirts and ’90s Ivy League style 80s off the shoulder, with bold puffy plaid mohair coats in a boxy silhouette. .

Meet me in the metaverse

Brands continue to experiment with the physical and online worlds: JW Anderson and Dolce & Gabbana recently launched NFTs, Phillip Plein accepts cryptocurrency, and glitchy pixelated prints abound in brands’ collections – just look at the checkerboard prints and graffiti at Dolce & Gabbana. At Fendi – a brand that continues to experiment with the world of tech accessories – the label has teamed up with Ledger Nano X, on a form of Baguette bag that incorporates a digital hardware wallet for cryptocurrency. JW Anderson also experimented with the digital realm. Ahead of the brand’s online show, the label released short films of female avatars sporting its A/W 2022 designs, leaping from iPhone screens and gushing over the stars. The video also showed off blinking eyelids accented by bold makeup, with a JW anchor monogram logo in the center of their pupil.

Adventure is always on the cards

DSquared2 show at Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022

Missoni at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022

Happy campers have all the more reason to be happy as many brands celebrate the great outdoors by reveling in a nomadic and adventurous spirit. DSquared2 went wild with layered silhouettes that nodded to a range of outdoor activities from rock climbing and camping, to bouldering and birdwatching, complete with ponchos and sequined balaclavas, cozy sleeping bag coats and quilted shorts, which riffed on high tech and hippy. Missoni was also on the high altitude. The label’s Mountain Calling capsule collection features psychedelic Nordic knits, featuring alpine scenes and a trippy logo.

Technical outerwear specialist CP Company, which continues to celebrate its fiftieth anniversary and has just emerged from a collaboration with Emporio Armani, also hosted the “Cinquata” exhibition, showcasing seventy iconic archive designs, sketches and memories, which defined the half-century of the brand. . §

AlphaTauri Mobile Innovation Lab at Pitti Uomo 101

Installation view of CP Company’s ‘Cinquata’ exhibition




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