Connect with us


In Milan, a new classicism




MILAN It was something of a sign that Nino Cerruti, the inventor of informal formality tailored for men and women (Coco Chanel was a fan) and a gentleman whose personal style was an ode to nonchalance, died during Milan’s menswear brief. week closed on Monday. Cerrutis’ subtle and witty playfulness, his approach to the art of dressing and his way of making everyday clothes resonate with the changing panorama of contemporary menswear. Mr Nino was classic in its own terms.

As everyone emerges from the pandemic mindset and dress laziness associated with working from home, the word classic seems to have suddenly regained a reassuring importance, and with that the suit and everything that revolves around clothing. Dressing like a ceremony to be precise, which requires an awareness of what you mean through your choice of dress, and the urge to go out and play it. Of course, its classicism of a kind a little different from the past: not stiff, and especially not for installers; rather young and fresh, because we are all tired of streetwear, sportswear and all the other fantasies of youth for the not so young.

There were plenty in Milan, from the black sea of ​​club culture of 44 Label Group, the new line of DJ Max Kobosil and Claudio Antonionis Dreamers Factory to the energetic brightness of MSGM. But it all felt out of step with the prevailing winds of fashion.

Classicism is much more breathtaking right now. He certainly has a wide range of expressions, ranging from proudly masculine to delicately feminine, from adult to deliberately infantilized. The two brands that embraced this sense of classicism, and with this tailoring and this uniform, and made a mark were Fendi and Prada. Silvia Venturini Fendi and the duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons approached the issue from opposite ends of the spectrum, while sharing an identical desire to push sartorial issues into the future, erasing categorical imperatives and stilted codifications . Venturini looked back to the Roaring Twenties of the 20th century to imagine the twenties of the 21st century as a playground for evolved dandy-ism. Fendi dandies, outfitted with Ledger digital wallets for storing cryptocurrencies and NFTs, grandpa’s closet fished for double-breasted blazers, tailcoats and camel coats, grandma’s drawers for pearl necklaces and lace knee-high socks, and also kindergarten memorabilia for Mary Janes. But nothing was alike. Blazers resembled a cape, pants a skirt, and coats bare the shoulders, while watches were attached to shoes. Venturini called his designs future relics and indeed they looked fascinating. There was a whiff of fairytale masculinity from Alessandro Micheles, but Venturini’s originality was in his lack of nostalgia and the quick conciseness of his message.

At the same time, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have titled their collection Body of Work and focus on clothing as a role- and work-related uniform: any type of work, as long as the clothes give importance to the person . They drew a utopian-dystopian alpha male figure who descended the catwalk from a neon tube and had him performed by a cast of models and actors of all ages. Kyle MacLachlan and Jeff Goldblum opened and closed respectively, dressed in nomenklatura overcoats, their steps weighed down by square boots. The mix of tropes with boiler suits under tailored jackets and sciura tufted mohair detailing on blazers and coats were classic Prada, seen through Raf Simons’ angular prism. On the subject of power and formality, Ms. Prada put on a memorable show in 2012. This season, the take on the issue was piercing, but at times a little forced and way too close to what Demna does at Balenciaga (although than with Prada owned). It was the only weak point. Pradas raison d’être, until now, has always been against the grain. Now it follows the mainstream.

The new classicism took a progressive turn at Zegna, where Alessandro Sartori again proved to be an understated fashion force. The strong point of the designers is not the pompous declarations, but the efficient technicality of the manufacture of the clothes. By making tailoring lightweight, volumes loose and layering strong, Sartori crafted a new type of up-to-date suit: one that features a matching windbreaker under the blazer, providing new utility while erasing rigidity.

Etro Fall/Winter 2022.

Walter Chiapponi, whose take on the Italian lifestyle at Tods proved bold in its subtlety, and Norbert Stumpfl, who showed remarkable refinement and poise in his outing for Brioni, softening bold masculinity of the house into something contemporary. and younger is the spirit.

There was something fresh and focused about Etro: monochromatic silhouettes, graphic prints, loose volumes and geometry instead of bohemian for a welcome renewal of a recipe that had become quite stuffy. The Etros trademark chance was there, but it was tightly edited, Loewe-style, and the results were peppy and youthful.

Deliberate chance was the mood at DSquared2, in a layering of hiking pieces, ropes, outerwear and backpacks that created a cheerful Ryanair look: you know, when hand luggage needs to be lightweight and you end up piling it all on yourself. The kind of youth that Matthew Williams favors in Alyx is more menacing and urban. There were protective clothing, massive shoes, and odd touches like shine and feathers. The recipe worked, although it seemed a bit forced.

Alyx Fall/Winter 2022.

Elsewhere, Milan Fashion Week took an exciting turn thanks in large part to a cohort of newcomers and established designers who walked the town for the first time. Ardusse, the brainchild of Gaetano Colucci, a name to watch, offered a clever mix of romanticism, propriety and acerbic sensuality. Federico Cina is another young designer working on the edges of romance. His grungy take on Balera culture was fresh and poignant. Relatively young but authoritative in expression, Luchino Magliano turned the Magliano label into a hotbed of twisted masculinity: a hotbed in which macho stereotypes are somehow deflected, and age doesn’t really matter. of importance.

The mix of fragility, aggressiveness and glitz brought a kind of broken British glamor to the Jordanluca collection, part walk of shame, part morning glory. But it was at JW Anderson that the celebrations finally exploded, albeit in video format (the creator opted to forgo a show in Milan due to pandemic concerns). It was a feast of silliness and ambiguity, metallic sparkle and ASMR sound, for parties that never were and will be.




The mention sources can contact us to remove/changing this article

What Are The Main Benefits Of Comparing Car Insurance Quotes Online

LOS ANGELES, CA / ACCESSWIRE / June 24, 2020, / Compare-autoinsurance.Org has launched a new blog post that presents the main benefits of comparing multiple car insurance quotes. For more info and free online quotes, please visit https://compare-autoinsurance.Org/the-advantages-of-comparing-prices-with-car-insurance-quotes-online/ The modern society has numerous technological advantages. One important advantage is the speed at which information is sent and received. With the help of the internet, the shopping habits of many persons have drastically changed. The car insurance industry hasn't remained untouched by these changes. On the internet, drivers can compare insurance prices and find out which sellers have the best offers. View photos The advantages of comparing online car insurance quotes are the following: Online quotes can be obtained from anywhere and at any time. Unlike physical insurance agencies, websites don't have a specific schedule and they are available at any time. Drivers that have busy working schedules, can compare quotes from anywhere and at any time, even at midnight. Multiple choices. Almost all insurance providers, no matter if they are well-known brands or just local insurers, have an online presence. Online quotes will allow policyholders the chance to discover multiple insurance companies and check their prices. Drivers are no longer required to get quotes from just a few known insurance companies. Also, local and regional insurers can provide lower insurance rates for the same services. Accurate insurance estimates. Online quotes can only be accurate if the customers provide accurate and real info about their car models and driving history. Lying about past driving incidents can make the price estimates to be lower, but when dealing with an insurance company lying to them is useless. Usually, insurance companies will do research about a potential customer before granting him coverage. Online quotes can be sorted easily. Although drivers are recommended to not choose a policy just based on its price, drivers can easily sort quotes by insurance price. Using brokerage websites will allow drivers to get quotes from multiple insurers, thus making the comparison faster and easier. For additional info, money-saving tips, and free car insurance quotes, visit https://compare-autoinsurance.Org/ Compare-autoinsurance.Org is an online provider of life, home, health, and auto insurance quotes. This website is unique because it does not simply stick to one kind of insurance provider, but brings the clients the best deals from many different online insurance carriers. In this way, clients have access to offers from multiple carriers all in one place: this website. On this site, customers have access to quotes for insurance plans from various agencies, such as local or nationwide agencies, brand names insurance companies, etc. "Online quotes can easily help drivers obtain better car insurance deals. All they have to do is to complete an online form with accurate and real info, then compare prices", said Russell Rabichev, Marketing Director of Internet Marketing Company. CONTACT: Company Name: Internet Marketing CompanyPerson for contact Name: Gurgu CPhone Number: (818) 359-3898Email: [email protected]: https://compare-autoinsurance.Org/ SOURCE: Compare-autoinsurance.Org View source version on accesswire.Com:https://www.Accesswire.Com/595055/What-Are-The-Main-Benefits-Of-Comparing-Car-Insurance-Quotes-Online View photos


to request, modification Contact us at Here or [email protected]