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Ardusse Men Fall 2022 – WWD




In a few seasons, the young designer Gaetano Colucci stood out for his gentle manners and his delicate and poetic interpretation of men’s fashion. But for fall, the soft-spoken talent had to face reality, as he pondered what designs are actually needed today.

This epiphany led him down a more simple and practical path, but still imbued with that aura of naivety that helped him stand out in the first place.

He reworked everyday staples like varsity coats and jackets, softening the shape of lapels and collars or opting for pastel colors. A trip to Iceland inspired him to embrace functionality through padded jackets and cargo pants, while the country’s waterfalls shaped the wave pattern that ran through shirts and flared denim pants.

The 70s influence was strong and in keeping with Colucci’s aesthetic, as he continued to walk the line between masculine and feminine. Lace and ruffles were still part of its lexicon, but introduced more subtly, the former offered in a brown and mustard combination and the latter rendered on a smaller scale, compared to previous seasons, to adorn striped shirts.

Responding to market needs was a mature step for Colucci, which delivered a cohesive and coveted collection. But let’s hope that in the long run commercial demands don’t cloud the creator’s authentic point of view – Milan could use his fresh and naive vision.




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