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Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2022 – WWD

 


PARIS – As physical formats dominate the Paris Men’s Fashion Week calendar, ANDAM winner Bianca Saunders leads the pack of brands entering the fall 2022 calendar.

Bianca Saunders

Last year’s ANDAM Fashion Award winner Bianca Saunders makes her Paris debut with her first solo show this season on Wednesday, despite the difficult border control situation between France and the UK

“I’ve always had this vision. I want to become a household name. Being in Paris is what really gives you more international credibility,” Saunders told WWD in an interview during which she revealed her five-year plan, which includes working more in Paris and possibly moving her operation there. Before Paris, she presented her collections with the British Fashion Council’s Newgen program in London.

Watch: Bianca Saunders Fall 2022

Bianca Saunders will present her fall 2022 collection in Paris on January 19.
Keana Sy/Courtesy of Bianca Saunders

The fall 2022 collection will be an ode to timeless beauty and showcase her experiments with fit, the movement of garments and their interaction with the body, the designer revealed.

Expect sharp jackets, coats and pants, plus leather and denim pieces with its signature rolled-shoulder design.

Meta Campania Collective

According to co-creative director Jon Strassburg, who founded the brand with Heiko Keinath and Constanze Walcher, Meta Campania Collective got its name from a village on the Amalfi Coast.

“The village name of ‘Meta’ just struck me as the name of the brand we were going to eventually launch,” he said, admiring its four-letter simplicity and the right sentiment, due to the role of the region as a magnet for artists through the centuries.

The addition of “Campania” was an ironic nod to established luxury brands and the names of their hometowns, and “collective” completed the name in reference to the creative circles in which it moves.

Watch: Meta Campania Collective Fall 2022

A look from Meta Campania Collective’s Fall 2022 collection.
Courtesy of Meta Campania Collective

While the brand’s moniker came long before Meta, the company formerly known as Facebook, was renamed, the co-founders happily embrace the coincidence, with Strassburg noting their interest in technology and their belief that ” there is a kind of bridge between the extremely artisanal and the future.”

But unlike the tech conglomerate, Meta Campania Collective is firmly on the physical side. Now in its second season, the brand continues to explore the seasoned utility of clever details that will appeal to the detail-obsessed, like the collar construction that avoids the unseemly gathers that seem inevitable in shirts.

And not only is their style an interpretation of the artists’ well-worn wardrobe, but the ASMR qualities of the brand’s luxurious materials command attention, from the satisfying slap of a calfskin bag on the table to the whisper of the crumpled cotton from a car coat. in the hand – even through Zoom’s less than ideal acoustics.

Namesake

For Taiwanese brothers Richard, Michael and Steve Hsieh, fashion wasn’t necessarily on the agenda of their careers. The first studied biology, the second psychology and the third was in civil engineering.

But sons were certainly something that was often talked about in the family – with their father too. “We have always been passionate about fashion and we always talked about it with [him] too,” they said in a Zoom call. That’s why they called their brand Namesake – and “In the name of the father” in Chinese – as a “means of contributing to [their] the family legacy.

To watch fall 2022: namesake

A preview of the Fall 2022 collection from Namesake.
Alien Wang / Courtesy of namesake

Basketball, another common passion, is where they draw inspiration for the brand, which presented its first collection in January 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shut down everything. But that didn’t stop them from building up a strong retail following, including Dover Street Market, Ssense, SKP and Browns, who were drawn to its unusual mix of sports gear and urban utility, with a touch of readiness. .

For fall 2022, the Hsieh brothers thought back to a pivotal moment in their teenage years, when the school marching band galvanized their basketball team en route to the final championship game of the season. “We lost that [match], but I still remember how music and jazz brought us all together,” Steve said, citing musician Andre 3000 and 1970s New Orleans as stylistic cues.

Note also that if the brand is still in its infancy, the brothers are not new to fashion. Since 2013, they have been at the head of the famous Taipei concept store NE.SENSE, which notably offers ERL, Casablanca and Y/Project alongside Rick Owens and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus.

Where is Paris

Born and raised in Paris, designer Arthur Robert fell into the indigo crowd as a teenager. “It amused me because there is a very geeky side to denim, with very specialized knowledge. There is a real culture with forums and sites where fans share their custom washes,” he said, adding that his early fascination with Dior Homme from the Hedi Slimane era had turned into a story of love with fashion.

After a decade spent mostly at Ami and then designing for other brands, Robert felt the desire to start telling his own story, particularly around his love of workwear and denim.

Ones To Watches: West Paris Fall 2022

An overview of the inaugural Ouest Paris collection.
Courtesy of Ouest Paris

But first, he wanted something that would stand up to his habit of cycling around town. “I thought I was divine when I left home and when I arrived I looked like a jerk,” said the designer, who sought looks that were “strong in terms of fashion but not precious.”

For the inaugural collection of Ouest Paris, named after his family roots in southwestern France, Robert infused the contemporary men’s wardrobe with notions drawn from traditional regional clothing where “men’s clothing can present volumes, pleating and even ornaments, even if they are sober, all elements generally assigned to a more feminine aesthetic.

The result is eye-catching yet accessible – both in style and price, with denim expected to stay under $200 and coats around $800.

Steven Passaro

With a master’s degree in menswear design from the London College of Fashion, Steven Passaro had just returned to Paris to escape the worst consequences of Brexit when the COVID-19 pandemic hit and ensued.

The designer ended up “sewing his first collection alone in his basement”, as he humorously puts it, trying to figure out how to best approach this new reality.

“That’s how I set up my pipeline using 3D software for model and product development, before making a single prototype,” an approach that’s as much a philosophy against waste as it is frugal choice. of a young designer on a low budget.

Although he defines the principles of his brand as “couture and technology”, Passaro admits to being obsessed with the “complexity of fabrics, living materials” and the techniques used to shape them. Take the couture details, which he wanted to apply to men’s clothing, in an approach that “ultimately negates the notion of gender” in a garment.

Fall 2022 Watch: Steven Passaro

A fall 2022 look from Steven Passaro.
Awesome Photos / Courtesy of Steven Passaro

Cue a fall 2022 collection inspired by the “intense, almost violent” sensations felt by hypersensitive people, where Passaro explores trompe-l’oeil layering applied to trench coats, cape jackets and pleats that telegraphs his vision of the “fold as a metaphor of different facets of oneself, always in motion.

Beyond the season, Passaro is also working on “Act of Growth”, which allows customers to bring back clothes to be revamped by the brand. “Refreshing items – adding a panel here, changing a seam there – reduces consumption but still fuels the need for novelty,” he said.

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