By THOMAS ADAMSON
PARIS (AP) A series of Paris Fashion Week menswear shows got underway in earnest this week for the fall-winter season, as French government restrictions saw many relegated to an online-only presence.
Brands that have chosen to maintain physical shows like AMI on Wednesday may not end up regretting it, benefiting as they seem to from a relative gain in coverage. As always, the beginning of the collections mainly highlights emerging talents, before the week leads to big names in the industry such as Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermès.
Here are some highlights from the Fall/Winter 2022 shows.
Tasteful and deceptively simple designs graced the Lemaire runway in a sublime collection. The 56-year-old designer, whose full name is Christophe Lemaire, is a master of the Parisian calendar with an unparalleled CV and has included a four-year stint at the helm of Hermès from 2010.
These talents were on full display for her fall-winter runway which used painstaking detailing, pre-war styles in muted hues and plays with proportions for a thought-provoking statement.
Designs for men and women merge effortlessly together. 1970s block heels mingled with loose or dropped 1920s waists, while oversized coats looked both 1930s and fashionable.
The low energy of the restrained color palette of autumnal taupes, beiges, blue-grays was effective in giving this funky collection a classic feel. Even the humble denim jacket evoked a timeless vibe, made loose and streamlined with the feel of the youthful and optimistic USA of the 1950s.
The pandemic has had a devastating impact on many fashion houses, forcing the cancellation of big-budget and high-profile collections over government restrictions in favor of digital videos featuring new models.
Although these videos attract a global following on Instagram, fashion editors agree that the heady mix of in-person clothing, adrenaline, showmanship and celebrity that make up a Paris Fashion Week show is hard to emulate. on a digital platform.
But the new hybrid calendar wasn’t just bad news. This has been good for some: In particular, small houses. Steven Passaro, appearing on the official Paris Fashion Week lineup for the very first time, is a designer whose notoriety has risen precisely because of the new style of digital presentation.
Passaro, 29, says he didn’t have the financial means to organize a full-fledged Paris Fashion Week with all the investment and razzmatazz associated with it. A video, on the other hand, was feasible.
This is my first time on the calendar. It was possible because the Federation (of Parisian fashion) didn’t want me to do a show. Making a video means spending a lot less money, Passaro told The Associated Press as he prepared to launch his first video, We Feel Things They’ll Never Feel.
It gives small houses like us big opportunities, he said.
Passaro, whose aesthetic mixes tailored and appliquéd tailoring and emphasizes hypersensitive looks, graduated from the London College of Fashion, before founding his eponymous label in 2019. But buyers, he said, n were not yet ready to accept his creations. Now, those who have been monitoring my development for a while have indicated that they want to buy his collection because he is on the official list. PFW helped us to be credible as a brand.
Passaro also reflected on how major houses have fared in the face of unprecedented restrictions on physical shows. The more old-fashioned and established houses that tend to throw money at artistic issues struggled to create worthwhile fashion videos at the start of the pandemic, he said, while young creatives who used to think on their feet were in their element.
Cultural fusion and a melting pot mentality were essential for designer Anthony Alvarez as he staged his first show on the calendar for his fashion brand Blue Marble.
The Alvarez brand name was borrowed from the iconic 1972 photographic image of Earth taken by the Apollo 17 crew as they headed for the Moon. Clearly, it’s a trademark symbol reminiscent of Alvarez’s heritage: he was born in New York but a mix of Filipino, Spanish, French and Italian roots.
With good reason, the collection celebrated this vision of the globetrotter with vibrant colors and a myriad of references. The first looks were reportedly inspired by the richly hued sails of traditional Philippine boats as they crossed the ocean.
Geometric shapes rendered in purples, yellows and pinks gave the collection a funky edge, as it was mixed with tongue-in-cheek quirky details.
Psychedelic knitwear, 90s sunglasses, suit coats with sequined hems mixed with ankle boots reminiscent of surfwear.
Alvarez is another example of how the hybrid digital fashion calendar has shone a spotlight on tiny homes.
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