Men’s fashion week in Paris this season brought us new silhouettes, reminding us of timeless styles and how much we all miss a certain fashion visionary.
Here are our picks of the best men’s clothing at PFW.
Vronique Nichanian’s creations for Herms menswear oscillate between seduction and class. All 43 iterations of the Modern Dandy graced the Fall 2022 catwalk in lambskin and croc, cashmere and, interestingly, nylon. Explosions of chlorophyll green, Hermès orange and crimson on sweaters, balaclavas and jackets invited the desire for materiality and the exploration of all things physical, so relevant at a time when the digitization of brands of luxury is increasingly ubiquitous.
Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby’s Fall 2022 menswear collection for GmbH is named after Talisman, a proclamation of Isik’s love for his Ottoman roots. Although this is the brand’s most formal collection to date, Talisman has tailored an apologetically erotic appeal. Excellent tailoring that was never restrictive, yet incredibly flattering, was met with thigh high boots that revealed short strips of bare thighs between where the cuffs ended and the start of the jackets, styled with GmbH’s signature carefree attitude. Isik and Huseby, meanwhile, continue to explore the details of the wrap collar, this time in a less erotic and more decorative way.
Your eyes didn’t deceive you, Jean-Paul Gaultiers’ signature infrared chest print made an appearance in the Glenn Martens Fall 2022 show for Y/Project at Men’s Fashion Week. The tribute was timely, given that Martens will take on the role of a former creative director for the Gaultiers collection which will be showcased during the upcoming Couture Week. Back to FW22. The range plays on provocative extremes with nipple graphics (take that, Instagram goons), messy necklines and, as always, a sharp cut. Knitted balaclavas in electrifying colors delve into a greater depth of surrealism, while casual crop-tops introduce a subtle patina of himbo-ness.
Kom Jones’ one-man show in the run-up to Dior’s 75th anniversary was a celebration of the Maison’s now iconic canons: Gris Dior, Dior garden (so often interpreted and reimagined by Maria Grazia Chiuri) and, of course, l Mizza print. The banded seam, so characteristic of Jones, has been replaced by loose silhouettes with even more layers. It was tempting to see Lady Dior’s traveling cannage leather on jackets almost as alluring as the flower-embroidered sleeve-like cuff details.
Rick went to Egypt, everyone! So, naturally, the Rick Owens men’s fall 2022 collection, presented at Paris fashion week, is full of references to old memories, stripped down to pure forms. The silhouettes reflected dystopian utility, as you’d expect from Owens’ enfant terrible, but it was the headwear that stole the show. The headgear takes the forms of Sets Nemes and Nefertitis crown. Although the focus of the collection is outerwear in nylons, furs and leathers, Owens, as always, balances the austerity of down jackets (some with attached face coverings) with a tasteful amount of skin.
The Louis Vuitton Fall 2022 menswear collection was the culmination of Paris Menswear Week and the pinnacle of the late Virgil Abloh’s innovative and authoritative approaches to design. If one were to organize the timeline of all Ablohs shows for Louis Vuitton, one might see the purest manifestation of the designers’ ironic detachment approach. Masterful tailoring embraced jewel tones accented by satin and velvet, while a myriad of quirky accessories played into the collections’ light tones (although this is, ultimately, a memento mori). In the whirlwind of colors, textures, references both comical and cynical, the angels who descended the runway at the end of the parade to the standing ovation were the metaphor for Abloh’s painfully short but hard-hitting triumph.
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