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Faux fur, feathers and frills: the most flamboyant fall-winter 22 menswear trend




Maybe it’s a slightly overly optimistic need for post-pandemic excess (knock on wood), maybe they were all collectively manifesting our own Roaring Twenties, or maybe they were all so contactless that we just want to look cuddly whatever the reason, fluffy is definitely in for AW22. This season’s collections at Dior, GmbH, Loewe, Prada, and more included an abundance of soft, supple furs (much of which were faux) and shearlings, which came in the form of exuberant coats, trims , cuffs, collars and even long campy boas. Yes, we’re talking about menswear, where we’ve finally seen a resurgence of opulence and an unabashed embrace of the flamboyance that’s often reserved for women’s runways or relegated to menswear collections from niche, usually queer, designers. . After a few seasons for oversized hoodies and casual tailoring, our eyes were definitely hunger for beauty, to quote Andr Leon Talley, the king of soft keys.

Fendi Men AW22

Image courtesy of Fendi

AT Rhude, EGONlab., and Fendi, Margot Tenenbaum brown coats hinted at a definitive break from austerity, evoking the opulence we all hoped to see two years ago, when we entered our own 20s of the 21st century. These coats, equal parts dandy and pimp (think Oscar Wilde and J-Lo in Hustlers), will keep you warm and stylish in the fall, or they’ll at least make you look like you’re in a Wes movie. Anderson, luckily there is no loss anyway.

At the same time, it’s not just about outward appearances. Indeed, few things feel better than seriously wearing something furry inside it’s cold out there a sheepskin lining Hermes jacket, for example. There’s something about luxury in the true sense of the word which is deeply personal, it may appear discreet to the naked eye but make you feel opulent and rich when you throw it on it’s something just for you. At Dior, Kim Jones presented arguably the most sumptuous bomber jacket of the season, the kind of jacket you text the chat group about; the kind that lets you know that wearers rich-rich (especially when worn with cashmere jersey track pants) its own 2022 version of Yves Saint Laurent’s beatnik Chicago jacket from his Dior AW60-61 collection. On a similar wavelength, Silvia Venturini Fendi added gorgeous oversized fur collars to leather jackets at Fendi, giving her something neo-dandy to warm up for the first chill of fall.

Prada Men AW22

Image courtesy of Prada

It’s the balancing act that these furs and shearlings find in these collections that is most fascinating, however. There’s something to be said for the fluffy juxtapositions and counterbalances and softness softening the coldness and edge of this season’s menswear. Take Prada, which had an intense sternness with some of the season’s broadest shoulders sharply cut in leather and wool suits. These, with their Johnny Bravo silhouettes, built a cartoonish archetype of pragmatic, sanitized masculinity. Here, however, long-haired sheepskin trimmings added much-needed element suppleness, counterbalancing its sense of smugness with teddy bear softness. Suddenly, this lively and serious character becomes accessible, Hug, cute!

GmBH Men AW22

Image courtesy of GmBH

Ostrich feathers sticking out of Alyx’s coats had a similar effect. softening effect on cool, tough-man Matthew Williams, ditto at EGONlab., where a lush olive-green fluffy collar polished the edge of a sharp black sequined coat. At Courrges, a long wool fur coat and sheepskin trim countered the finesse of their now-iconic nightclub vinyl, while Ami Paris campy fur boas Guess you can also call them scarves if you need to slide down the runway, bringing a vivacious feel to Alexandre Mattiussis effortlessly cool. At Rick Owens, Theda Bara parkas, named after the iconic American silent film and theater actress of the 1920s, were adorned with extravagant goat hair trim, moving the scale away from Rick’s signature industrial edge with their plush, campy bounce. There’s something delightfully campy about naming a piece of men’s clothing after a woman widely regarded as the first sex symbol of the movie age.

Mens Squashes AW22

Image courtesy of Courrges

For some other designers, however, it was all about fantasy, an unbridled flamboyance reminiscent of only fashion’s best years. Imagine Halston arriving at Studio 54 with Bianca Jagger and Liza Manelli, draped in furs and sequins for a night of messy excess, or Andr Leon Talley, draped in custom Fendi furs by Karl Lagerfeld (here seated with Lord Snowdon, photographed for Vanity Fair in 1987 by Milton Gendel). This was the case at GmbH, Loewe and Dries Van Noten. There was something generously opulent about GmbH’s oversized fur collars and cuffs, which came in black, white and rich scarlet, something almost cartoonish and inherently camp in the truest and weirdest sense of the word.

See also Delicious Jonathan Andersons fur coat at Loewe, which came with fiber optic lights inserted into the hems and sleeve cuffs, creating a technical fairy tale effect. The model wore the piece shirtless, which is not only indisputably hot but also embodies the beautiful opulence of wearing a fluffy coat, it makes you feel tender and soft. A Dries Van Noten light cerulean blue shearling coat had a less sexy and more romantic effect, even if it contained the same sweetness. These are the kind of coats that make people want to kiss you.

Honorable mention goes to the unbridled opulence showcased during Pieter Muliers’ second collection for Alaa, which represented the kind of excess that menswear collections could only dream of with its stunning snow leopard print. vest, ultra-high floating mongolian goat boots, and fluffy mermaid hem.

Alaa Men AW22

Image courtesy of Alaa

Such is the kind of opulence that men deserve today. In his show notes, Rick Owens mentioned how he started out doing his towering, exaggerated shoulder silhouette as a parody of masculinity, but ended up loving wearing them. Camp has always been about exaggerating genuinely naïve impulses, he wrote in his capitalized signature. And the truth is, whether those urges are to embrace or reject masculinity, to appear softer and more tender, or simply to to feel the lushness of being draped in furs, there’s no denying how downright fabulous the end result is.

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