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4SDesigns Men’s Spring 2023 Collection




The Moorish striped archways of Rocchetta Mattei Castle in Italy serve as the backdrop for Angelo Urrutia’s exciting new 4SDesigns collection. Erected at the end of the 19th century, the castle is a hodgepodge of styles designed by the eccentric Caesere Mattei who founded electro-homeopathy and forced every guest to his palatial estate to undergo his treatment. Urrutia doesn’t have to force it; during showroom appointments, buyers and editors will routinely run away with samples and emerge minutes later re-dressed as 4SDs.

The appeal of 4SDesigns is its multiplicity. Talking about her credentials, Urrutia goes all over her Salvadoran grandmother and Juice, the 1992 movie starring Tupac Shakur, to 80s sportswear from Armanis and the New York Knicks. In just two years, he’s proven that anything can be 4Sed, but he’s deliberately taken his menswear brand.

This season it was all about dressing up and a New York version of preppiness. Rounded, cropped silhouettes inspired by Nautica and Polo Ralph Lauren collide with military-inspired cargos and lightweight jackets. A crisp gold material used for shirts and pants is single-sided quilting. There are striking and delicate tweeds made into button-down shirts with contrast collars and eyelash tweed golf jackets, azure French Bucol not seen this side of a ball gown over a shirt, and even a wispy faux leather turned into a cape trench coat.

I wanted to use fabrics that you don’t traditionally see in menswear,” Urrutia said. But rather than play on their women’s associations, it cuts a new type of more rugged men’s clothing. The most breathtaking use of the fabric is the actually soft printed buckskin. It’s just for the wearer, he says, no one but you will know what it does.

This attention to detail is one of the things that keeps Urrutias customers coming back. The other, surely, is his ease. No matter how fine its fabrics and finishes, these are low puffy garments. He models how easy they are himself, wearing vintage overdyed feathered hoodies and basketball shorts with crotch snaps that turn them into skirts for running in Bologna, Florence and Milan.

At the Met Gala, Riz Ahmed wore a 4SDesigns virgin wool shirt and pants as a tribute to the immigrant workers of the Americas, which were both cool and elegant. With this collection, Urrutia refines its art and its message: 4SDesigns offers global clothing for a new type of self-confident guy who goes beyond logos, multi-layered cashmere and Eurocentric elegance. For now, he stands out from the establishment, but his ideas have the potential to become the new center of menswear.




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