Fashion
Prada Spring 2023 Men’s Collection
When asked backstage what he and Mrs. Prada were thinking when they created this collection, Raf Simons happily retorted: you do you think we thought? With a charming air of regret, Ms. Prada added with a smile that under current Prada protocols, critical comments after the show are prohibited. Another doodler standing nearby only half heard and thought the shed meant Forbidden was the theme of the collection. It has been disambiguated.
The enigmatic position of the designers is fair enough. The air of mystery generated by inscrutability is very empowering to some. And spontaneous comments are sometimes misinterpreted, even if they also lead to dialogue. So we ended up with a riddle partially unlocked by the emailed press release and quotes attributed to creators who came after a show that, watching it unfold, felt like playing a Wordle of clothes for men.
The first character we cracked was a costume. He came black, skinny in pants and cut up cowboy boots. Jackets were single or 1.5 breasted, cut slim and low cut. Then make way for burst leather: black double-zip shorts that make you shiver, worn against sleeveless tops and coats. Soon after, the shorts were embellished with a series of striped ribbed knits.
Between Look 16 and Look 19, conceptual meat and potatoes appeared via deliberately unremarkable notched-collar four-button coats that came in leather, gingham and off-white. The models were sometimes double-coated, sometimes single. Shorts underpinned the looks. This coat was a material version of the paper coat that came with the invitation. A colleague had tried his on, and it immediately tore. The paper reflected the mise en place: the Fondazione exhibition space had been laid out like an oversized house interior, whose white walls, gingham curtains, and light brown floor were also made of paper. Was it an invitation to make us think about how matters that seem so substantial and fixed like dress codes or interiors are fundamentally arbitrary? There were not yet enough characters in play to conclude.
Then there were button-back shirts lined with leather in shopping bag checks, with artfully naf ric-rac trimmings that echoed Pradas’ pyramid cipher. There was a brief section of attractive washed denim. Sneakers, cool sneakers, popped up between these Cuban heel boots. After a brief costume redux and bottle-print t-shirts worn with slightly shorter shorts than before, a powerfully normcore beige bomber jacket foreshadowed a final triptych of looks that played up leather against more mundane beige upholstery.
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Sources 2/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/prada The mention sources can contact us to remove/changing this article |
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