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Mowalola Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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When Mowalola Ogunlesi appeared for her arc after a three-year track hiatus, the room roared. Ogunlesi has a strong fashion-loving community here even outside of her physical show space, her legions of online fans have offered an outpouring of support for their comeback daughter Mowas. This passion is reflected in Ogunlesis’ clothes and in her first solo exhibition after participating in Fashion East for several seasons.

Before, I used to stop myself from expressing myself in certain ways because I thought I shouldn’t, she told Vogue Business ahead of her Paris debut. But the designer has learned that whatever feeds me, I have to do. What fueled Ogunlesi this season was the flight and evolution of her aesthetic beyond the trench coats, t-shirts and accessories she is known for. She titled her collection Burglarwear, inspired by all types of criminals, from kidnappers to stockbrokers to priesthood. There were literal renderings of these themes, the show opened with a yellow leather crossover harness, closed with a beautiful cross-adorned sheer veil worn over a naked body, and the Wall Street suits were cut to Mowalola proportions between the two, but its most interesting proposals were its distortions to the human body.

Sex appeal has been a staple of the Mowalola look since creating her brand backstage before the show she expressed frustration about gendered views of sex appeal that’s why i have women showing nipples and men showing nipples, a pregnant model in a beaded dress and a model man in some of the lowest pants seen this season. But rather than just showing off the body, she reshaped it. Inspired by the way kidnappers tied your wrists in the same position if you were wearing handcuffs, she said she had created clothes that kept your arms crossed in front. Best was a white dress that pointed the models elbows skyward. I like the idea of ​​turning clothes into weapons, shoes into weapons, shoulders into weapons, elbows into weapons, she said with a smile, Even my bag sometimes I have to use my bag as a weapon. Living as freely and expressing yourself as purely as Ogunlesi, unfortunately, sometimes requires fighting for space in fashion. She is definitely up to the task.

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