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From Brad Pitt to Boris Johnson: How the baggy linen suit became retirement attire | men’s fashion

From Brad Pitt to Boris Johnson: How the baggy linen suit became retirement attire |  men’s fashion

 


SSome men look great in a suit. Others struggle. Never was that line more clearly drawn than when 58-year-old actor Brad Pitt and 58-year-old outgoing Prime Minister Boris Johnson wore baggy linen suits to starkly different effect over the past week.

You may have spotted Johnson’s cream linen suit paired with a sky blue shirt when a leaked video of her wedding party at the end of July in the Cotswolds appeared online. Too long in the leg, and so generously sized it bordered on cartoonish, it was the epitome of Johnson, proof that for a privileged few, willful neglect is not just a privilege but a must, even on the day of your marriage.

In contrast, the Pitts suits worn on the promotional tour for his new movie Bullet Train have been breaking big corners of the internet. Equally crinkled and generously sized, they came in bright shades of zoom green, cantaloupe granita and burnt espresso, and were designed by Dutch slow fashion designer Haans Nicholas Mott. One of them even came with a skirt. When asked by Variety why he wore what he wore as red carpet tradition dictates, Pitt alluded to the worsening climate: I don’t know! Were all going to die, so watch out.

All of this begs the question of whether Johnson is suddenly trendy, or isn’t Pitt suddenly trendy?

Blame it on the weather, but the big linen suit has become the norm for men entering a new phase of life and when done right can be an exciting evolution, says the fashion writer , publisher and scholar Dal Chodha. Dressing in linen, slow fashion, things between skirt and pants, men’s and women’s wear, it’s good for the times, he says, comparing red carpet moments from Pitts to Harry Styles appearing in a dress on the cover of Vogue in 2019, or, in 1998, David Beckham wearing a sarong over trousers, in their cultural cachet.

Chodha, himself a fan of a looser silhouette (I don’t want to feel a seam cut into me, I don’t want my clothes to police me if I put on a bit of weight) thinks this Pitt rebranding is a big hit, a deliberate softening of what menswear can mean, and a far more poetically manly dip into middle age than Johnson.

Fashion psychologist Carolyn Mair agrees: I doubt Johnson’s reasons for choosing baggy over a tailored or tailored fit have to do with style. On the contrary, she says, it is simply her mark.

Silhouettes tend to expand during boom times, see Dior’s post-war couture (dubbed the New Look) and the puffy shapes of Armanis suits from the late 90s. The same could be said of changes, like the end of a career, and that kind of loud, sleazy, fun look could be considered a retirement suit . Johnson, as we know, already has one foot out there. And as Pitt told GQ of his career, I consider myself on my final step this past semester or quarter.

Mair says: In times of separation, we may prefer to stay hidden or take up more space, so they choose loose clothing that takes up more space, making the wearer appear larger than them and accentuating their presence.

From the Delhi-based label Ito at MRS and UK labels SMR days and Oliver Spencer, the loose linen look has gained popularity among men who don’t know what to wear on a hot day but may have the means or need, as a ticketed event, to dress anyway. That Johnson’s aesthetic is closer to that of the late Man from Del Monte commercials (the actor in question, Brian Jackson, died last month) suggests that, mentally, he’s already in even sunnier climes than the British.

But with Covid, casual dress codes and heat waves ending suits, the linen look is likely to linger. Tailor Oliver Spencer calls it the suit of the future or for people who don’t normally wear suits. They are very easy to wear. [The wearer] manages to get dressed without feeling confined. Loose linen suits have become the bread and butter of British tailors and, along with seersucker outfits, continue to outsell anything else through the summer.

Still, Chodha thinks men should approach this look with caution. The worst thing that can happen now is that middle-aged men in the UK, inspired by Brad, descend into their drinking holes in linen skirts.

Sources

1/ https://Google.com/

2/ https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/aug/09/from-brad-pitt-to-boris-johnson-how-the-loose-linen-suit-became-retirement-wear

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