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Issey Miyake, fashion designer whose work fascinated art stars (and made the cover of Artforum), dies at 84

Issey Miyake, fashion designer whose work fascinated art stars (and made the cover of Artforum), dies at 84

 


Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake died of liver cancer on Friday. He was 84 years old.

Miyake, with his sculptural and origami creations that helped define post-war Japanese modernism, was a staple to outfit the art world. In 1982, he became the first fashion designer to have his work featured on the cover of art forum.

Born in Hiroshima, Miyake witnessed the destruction of his city in 1945 as a child, and injuries from the cataclysmic event left him lame for the rest of his life. He has made a career out of materializing a utopian vision. He studied graphic design and then moved into fashion, apprenticed with Hubert de Givenchy and Geoffrey Beene before forming Miyake Design Studio in 1970. Three years later he started showing in Paris, where he became a member of a small coterie of Japanese designers, including Kenzo. Takada and Rei Kawakubo, who will revitalize French fashion week.

PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 15: Model of Issy Miyake at the Ready-to-Wear Fall-Winter 1995 1996 show, Paris on March 15, 1995. (Photo by Daniel SIMON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

A model in a pleated design for Issey Miyake’s Fall 1995 show in Paris. Photo by Daniel SIMON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.

Her clothes evoked a hard-to-identify sense of place, an almost global aesthetic of harmony and freedom of movement. Sometimes his interests were otherworldly, like his sci-fi flying saucer insignia; elsewhere he used the tropes of Bedouin clothing and ancient Japanese theater. An explorer of form, Miyake was renowned for developing an innovative permanent crease that transformed polyester into a crease-resistant accordion-like haute couture. (He also designed Steve Jobs’ famous black turtleneck.)

“Issey Miyakes designs represent the highest aesthetic and technical achievement in fashion,” said Amanda Garfinkel, curator at the Met’s Costume Institute, which has more than 150 pieces by Issey Miyake in its permanent collection. “Through experiments on material and silhouette, he rethought the relationship of clothing to the body and made fashion evolve as an art form.”

A look from Issey Miyake's spring 1994 collection.  (Photo by Alexis DUCLOS/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

A look from Issey Miyake’s spring 1994 collection. Photo by Alexis DUCLOS/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.

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