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Learning how clothes are made has a ‘transformative’ effect on people’s relationship with fast fashion

Learning how clothes are made has a ‘transformative’ effect on people’s relationship with fast fashion

 


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Knowing more about how clothes were made can have a transformative effect on people’s relationship with fast fashion, according to a new study.

Learning about clothing production and how to make, repair, and alter clothes can encourage the adoption of more sustainable clothing choices, such as buying fewer new outfits and repairing.

The study shows that people won’t be persuaded to avoid fast fashion if there are attempts to “educate” them.

The research was part of the Arts and Humanities Research Council funded “S4S: Designing Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing Project”. The academics followed the participants for nine months.

Experts from the University of Exeter and the University of Wolverhampton asked people in Cornwall and the West Midlands what they think of clothes and how they act when shopping, and whether the workshops have an impact on their feelings, thoughts and actions. As part of the study, they partnered with community venues, consultants who facilitated workshops, videographers and the NGO Fashion Revolution.

Many participants from the West Midlands had previously worked in the garment industry.

Over the course of 40 workshops, participants learned how “plush” is transformed into yarn dyed and woven fabric and used yarn and woven fabric in deconstructive and reconstructive knitting sessions.

Attendees in Cornwall learned about zero waste and learned to knit with wool from untangled old knitwear. Those in the West Midlands turned old men’s shirts into aprons which the Cornwall group embellished in their tailoring and repair shops. The West Midlands group engaged in visible repair, which inspired the Cornwall group to recycle and reinvent waste from otherwise useless charity shops.

Conversations during the workshops were recorded, and further discussions were facilitated by the research team, both individually and in groups. Participants also kept reflective journals and participated in short reflective videos.

The workshop tasks were designed to get people thinking about the life of clothes and their materials, the ethical issues raised by fast fashion, and to teach the skills to make, repair and alter clothes.

Participants also participated in wardrobe changes at the start and end of their participation time, estimated the number of items in their wardrobes, before making an accurate count of their number.

The study, published in the Material Culture Journal, says that to encourage more sustainable behavior, people need to have the space to learn rather than learn “approved values ​​and behavior”. One participant from the West Midlands said: “We had quite a few good discussions about cheap clothes and not demonizing them and the privilege of being able to dress properly. We talked about the privilege of being able to make clothes ethical choices when you have a low income and one of the dangers is that it gets, like, a bit of snobbery in there.”

During a pre-workshop wardrobe audit in Cornwall, another participant said: “I don’t think it’s about shaming people about what they buy and saying” and that’s wrong, “I think it’s more about helping people make more informed decisions.”

Dr Joanie Willett, from the University of Exeter, said: “We have found that the determining factor in avoiding fast fashion is that the clothes and the materials they are made from are valuable and embody the After the workshops, people expressed a desire to reduce their clothing either by buying fewer higher quality goods that they hoped they could keep longer, or by choosing not to buy anything at all for an extended period of time. .

Professor Clare Saunders, from the University of Exeter, said: “We have found that inviting people to immerse themselves in the materiality of clothing enables potentially transformative affective encounters which, like seeds, can be nurtured and encouraged. The workshops helped the participants to become more “fluid”. as people who create with textiles, and to find pleasure in undertaking these activities.”


Appetite for fast fashion goes out of fashion as people discover impact of mass-produced clothes, study finds


More information:
Joanie Willett et al, The affective economy and fast fashion: materiality, embodied learning and the development of a sensibility for sustainable clothing, Material Culture Journal (2022). DOI: 10.1177/13591835221088524

Provided by the University of Exeter


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