When we talk about India, we cannot ignore its sartorial heritage. Filled with handlooms that still use centuries-old weaving techniques, embroidery and fabric painting techniques passed down through generations of artisans, the country’s culture served as a starting point for designers who took inspiration from it. from time to time. While a host of Indian designers have spent their time preserving and reinventing traditional textiles and fabrics, many international designers have reimagined them with an inclination of their creativity and design ideologies and come up with collections that are a new approach to the east-meets-west aesthetic. .
The saree may be quintessentially Indian, but draping has been spotted in the collections of several designers. For his Fall 2019 ready-to-wear collection, Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto turned to saree-like drapes and mixed them with his signature goth style. Throughout the collection, black fabric enveloped the models’ bodies and ultimately resulted in a malaria-like cloth placed almost always on the left shoulder – somewhat resembling the snow way of draping the saree.
As for the saree, Nepali-born American designer Prabal Gurung also showed off a style displaying a malaria in this pre-draped style edged with feathers and crystals, almost like a saree border, in her resort 2022 collection. This piece was also recently spotted on Malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh.
While a pre-draped saree is a relatively new concept made famous by Indian designers such as Gaurav Gupta, Amit Aggarwal and Tarun Tahiliani, the traditional saree – like the ones you would have spotted on your grandmothers – inspired Jean Paul Gaultier for the Printemps d’Hermès. collection in 2008. The traditional garment has been given a chic makeover and metamorphosed into coordinates. A pleated malariaAn Indian-inspired fabric with gold trim was draped over a top that featured the quintessentially Indian scoop-neck blouse. But it was not the only piece that evoked the feeling of India. The entire collection was awash with pieces such as Jodhpur pants, one-shoulder dresses with paleand Nehru necklaces.
Hermès was not the only luxury brand to found a collection entirely inspired by India. For fall 2012, Karl Lagerfeld designed Paris-Bombay which is full of bandh gala kurtas, raw silk and brocade tunics, draped skirts, lamé leggings and signature Chanel tweed jackets embellished with pearls and crystals. The collection, referencing Indian maharajas, also included camp-y necklaces and plenty of gold and silver jewelry.
Kurtaor at least their westernized interpretations, were also plentiful more recently in Armani’s fall 2021 couture collection where models were seen in long textured single-breasted jackets kurtas (or something like them) paired with highly reflective mercurial silk organza pants.
The designers did not limit their interpretation of Indian culture to clothing alone. Many luxury brands have turned to accessories that bear Indian symbols – some upfront and others layered and understated.
Mesh sock ankle boots titled Cynosure by luxury shoe brand Jimmy Choo feature excess hotfix crystals and a crystal and pearl falling around the top edge of the shoes that mimic elaborate Indian anklets. Inspired by the jewelry often spotted on women on festive occasions, these shoes show our love for accessories.
The Indian aesthetic has also been embraced by French luxury brand Christian Louboutin in the design of its fragrance, Loubiraj, as part of the Loubiworld fragrance collection. Formulated by perfumer Daphné Bugey, it boasts notes that are an inspiring mishmash of suede leather, pink peppercorn and cedarwood, and draws inspiration from Louboutin’s experience in India. The turbaned and jeweled tiger also symbolizes India’s penchant for maximalism.
Even before Gucci became a household name, thanks to frequent flaunting of the maximalist brand by Ranveer Singh, the leather goods-turned-apparel brand launched Boston bags with elephants and rose motifs printed on them as part of the Souvenir collection designed especially for India.
Kim Kardashian in Jean Paul Gaultier
In Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 22 couture collection designed by Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, the bride nath– Inspired nose jewelry with metallic chains was a mainstay of accessories that have been tweaked to give rooms a retro-futuristic appeal.
Although Indian ateliers have been responsible for a significant portion of the embroidery and other handiwork spotted in the couture collections of so many luxury brands, seeing designers draw inspiration from the country’s sartorial heritage is a great pride. You do not agree ?
Also read: Designer Anjul Bhandari is in a league of her own
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