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Simone Rocha London Fashion Week SS23 runway show

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Did Simone Rocha just steal London Fashion Week before it was even over? With her Spring/Summer 2023 collection, which debuted earlier today at the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales – colloquially known as The Old Bailey – it looks like Rocha could have done just that. that. With a background that began under Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East class in 2010, as well as an upbringing at Central Saint Martins, Rocha has made a name for her consistent performances season after season; each outfitted in their usual romantic design language.

For SS23, Rocha sued us, and we solemnly swear it was by far his greatest achievement to date. Not only did the designer present her first fully formed menswear collection, but she also managed to marry this novelty with the codes of the house and her level of attention to detail expected in both lines.

To the beat of piercing operatic music (a soundtrack that heightened the emotion in the room alone), formations of tulle enveloped the body like gentle waves, working alongside ribbons draped across the floor and baroque florals to create a sense of drama and must-have looks. Pearl beads adorned the shoulders of ruffled vests, as well as the straps of larger-than-life backpacks and, of course, Rocha’s signature bags reminiscent of the pearls themselves.

Approval was granted the second time menswear took to the catwalk, as Rocha showed off the symbiotic relationship between its well-defined womenswear catalog and the new menswear range. The tulle was served in cream but had a decidedly harder edge, eschewing frills for the drooping structural formations descending from massively oversized bomber jackets. This combination – a soft and tough approach – harnesses Rocha’s ability to be aware of having commerciality as a designer, knowing full well that the general menswear shopper may not want to opt for frills, but can still access the look via the aforementioned bomber.

Similarly, another bomber jacket – this time in a traditional shade of bright khaki – was teamed with cargo pants and echoed the suspenders built into the jacket by also placing them on the gathered legs. Harmony came when the next look, this time for women, saw the iconic bomber jacket shape transformed into a tech-like puff dress, while on the other hand, the next look, again for men, included a cream bib apron with bead detailing, sitting atop a white t-shirt and floral pants, again bringing us soft and hard fashions.

The white t-shirts were never simple, with one pushing a three-dimensional sculpture up the front. Rocha’s flowers decorated a cream satin coat that evoked Maison Margiela’s quilt coat as its lapels flapped carelessly, while men’s tailoring kept things rather traditional and clean in black.

It wasn’t just a promising effort from Rocha; her menswear collection, now in its most comprehensive form to date, was enough to immediately catapult the designer into this relatively untapped world for her. References to Lee Alexander Mcqueen and a couture-inspired finale featuring a white bridal ensemble wrapped up the show’s masterpiece.

Speaking about the collection, Rocha said her harnesses were a reference to the concept of physically exploiting her emotions over the past two years. On her men’s clothing, she said:

“I’m really proud of [deliver] man, I felt like I could work on this beautiful masculinity. It’s a vindication of everything I’ve done over the past ten years, what that role plays and how it intersects between the two – and I really wanted to explore that within masculinity.

Simone Rocha’s SS23 show can be seen in the gallery above, while other London Fashion Week SS23 content can be found on Hypebeast and our new Instagram channel, @HypebeastUK.

For more must-see shows, check out JW Anderson’s winning collection.

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2/ https://hypebeast.com/2022/9/simone-rochas-ss23-menswear-debut-stole-our-hearts

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