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Goths, brides and directional purple

Goths, brides and directional purple

 


At the Versaces spring 2023 show in Milan, the lighting was set to a hazy purple, candle bulbs flanked the runway and the subversive Y2K Goth was fully reborn as Paris Hilton closed the show in a shimmering dress and bright pink fingerless gloves , playing the role of a goddess turned leader.

The show kicked off with cutout jersey dresses before launching headlong into rocking leathers in the form of mini skirts, fringed jackets, low waistbands and silver and gold studded dresses. Versace has always been associated with bold prints and colors in the past, and the almost all-black collection gave the impression that the brand was diving deeper into a slightly different look that it had tackled in recent seasons.

Black is without a doubt one of the most powerful hues in fashion, and it represents so much from mourning to powerful clothing. More designers are gravitating to the blank slate of color as a concept (see Richard Quinn or Balenciaga), an intriguing move on the brink of a recession and emerging from a cocoon in which maximalism truly thrived. . The current perception of black color in fashion almost feels like a new beginning.

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Versace’s take on black was executed well and kept the darkest hue exciting through the embellishment, layering, styling and play with proportions the brand is known for. But when it came to certain pieces, like a spiky black mesh for example, it was hard not to see it as incredibly referential, intentionally or not. (Knitwear designer Chet Lo, for example, has made this particular style his signature over the past few years.) Elsewhere, the Y2K aesthetic that permeated the collection resembled things we’d seen a lot before from Anna. Sui 90s or modern Blumarine. . The hoodie look was gorgeous, but looked like a Grace Jones moment from the Halston era.

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

What sounded kind of glorious was the part of the collection rendered completely in a very specific shade of acid purple. Part 90s, part fancy, all Prince, there was absolutely no doubt that pigment had major impact and power on the runway, especially in strappy dresses, hooded tops, little tube dresses in leather and thick jackets.

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Technicolor brides in highlighter yellow and hot pink, with delicate veils, closed the show, and some of the industry’s hottest names walked the runway, including Adut Akech, Precious Lee, Gigi and Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk and Emily Ratajkowski.

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Black bodes well for the new era of maximalist Goths, after season after season of dopamine-infused colors. But perhaps here’s even more power in purple, monochromatic dressing as a mode of self-expression. Lately, it’s as if the hues themselves have reached trend status. Bottega Veneta had its green, Valentino created a pink moment that was helped by the rising Barbiecore trend, and it’s easy to see how Versace could grab such a directional purple.

Sources

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2/ https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/versace-spring-2023-milan-fashion-week-review

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