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Paris Fashion Week tries an all digital format, just once

 


Before the borders opened across the European Union, Parisian designer Spencer Phipps obtained permission to go to Spain and shoot a film from his men’s spring / summer 2021 collection. The collection he designed during the Lock is inspired by westerns, and the Spanish landscape was the closest to the American West that San Francisco-born Phipps could have. His assistant made the film while friends played the role of actors. It’s fun to see how you style differently than a series of shows; character first, says Phipps, noting that a white T-shirt in a movie can easily become iconic. Think of James Dean.

Cinema is a new skill for fashion designers participating in the first week of fully digital Parisian fashion. In response to the Covid-19 pandemic, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the French fashion governing body, transformed the SS21 men’s fashion week, scheduled for June 23-28, into an event digital, from July 9 to 13. A digital alternative to fashion shows takes place from today, from July 6 to July 9, with the majority of the big names of the house such as Chanel, Dior and Valentino. It is not a substitute, it is something new, explains Pascal Morand, executive president of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion.

Pariss digital fashion shows are part of a broader industry transition to recreate the online fashion show through partnerships with digital platforms like YouTube, Google, Instagram and the Chinese agency Hylink through which it will combine with WeChat, Weibo and Little Red Book. Milan is also going digital from July 14 to 17 while Burberry promised a hybrid digital physical show in September with the benefits of large-scale production, presented virtually.

It’s always difficult to get it right: London’s digital fashion week in June, led by the British Fashion Council, has received mixed reviews and has not drawn attention online. Reducing the weight of the digital switchover is the imminent return of in-person broadcasts scheduled for September. While New York SS21 Fashion Week has been shortened to a three-day digital event, organizers in Milan and Paris have announced that physical fashion shows will return in September.

Insiders say that the digitization of fashion week is accompanied by a loss of emotion. For small designers rushing to produce collections following foreclosure delays and cash flow problems, producing a film or digital presentation poses an additional challenge. But digital events also offer an opportunity to reach new audiences and explore new ways to show collections.

JW Anderson’s Resort 2021 show, presented in a box sent to publishers and buyers.

© JW Anderson

Even if the commercial role of Fashion Week is not necessarily fulfilled, it is a question of reaffirming the continuity of the cultural functions of Parisian Fashion Week, explains Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at the French Fashion Institute, who supervises the digital content of the event.

For its digital events, the organizers of Paris Fashion Week have assembled an online platform which includes a calendar section where the videos of the houses live, a magazine section, an event section which offers discussion panels and concerts, a brand and sphere section, a virtual showroom for young designers created in partnership with Le New Black, a pioneering online fashion fair.

The rules for participation include the submission of a film of a maximum duration of 20 minutes presenting an SS21 collection or expressing the brand or the creative process. Other than that, his carte blanche. The houses become diffusers, explains Ren Clestin, founder of the fashion show production company. As such, they are streamed live with multiple cameras, mixing media, collaborating with directors from the film or art industry.

Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Dior Homme, Dries Van Noten, Berluti, Herms and Lanvin will perform during Pariss Digital Men’s Week, while those absent include Givenchy, Acne Studios, Ami and Valentino. Some reasons: Givenchy has just appointed a new designer; Valentino decided to show off its men’s collection alongside women in September and Acne Studios has already sold the collection digitally to buyers.

The designers say that the experience of creating a digital show has resulted in the use of new creative media and has provided information on design and collections.

Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing called on Andrew Makadsi, the artistic director of Beyoncs videos, to record the physical show he staged on a boat last week; the video will be broadcast on July 11 as part of the Paris Fashion Week couture program. We bring in different people like Andrew to integrate the post-production work and make it digital, says Rousteing.

The show (which respected sanitary measures) included performances and the presentation of a few pieces of archival couture and some recent creations of Rousteings. The designer will show his SS21 collection for men alongside women in September. I still hope my clients and the press can travel in September and see my show, he said. With all American travel to the European Union still prohibited, it remains to be seen.

Others also show up early. Herms explained that he did it before PFW only because the artist was only available that day. Herms staged an audience without audiences on July 5, in collaboration with artist Cyril Teste, with a replay scheduled for July 12. Jonathan Anderson presented his collection for his brand JW Anderson on July 2 in a video on the brand’s website and Instagram account. In a 12-minute video taken in his office, without models, he explained the inspiration behind his creations, showing illustrations to the camera. It is this idea of ​​an act of divinity to try to work creatively around solutions to be able to present something. I think it is very important for us to maintain momentum, Anderson told viewers. Another video will be broadcast on July 9 on the Pariss digital platform.

Designer Julie de Libran worked with sound designer and director Frdric Sanchez on a behind-the-scenes short film of his tailor-made dress brand, in which you see fittings and other exclusive moments. It made me realize that I need to be more disciplined in documenting my work, she says. This is important in our age of social media. There are no new exhibits. I didn’t want to rush anything and I prioritize my existing orders.

Couture designer Ronald van der Kemp presents a series of short films but finds the digital format difficult. The essence of couture is reality, he says, noting that the event proves that new collections are not always essential for communication. We don’t need to produce as much.

Lanvin’s creative director Bruno Sialelli agrees. He will present a sharper and tighter men’s collection, around thirty looks, or around half the usual amount. Everybody is in a hurry. Everyone landed on two wheels, explains Cyril Cabellos, communications manager at Lanvins. But it’s better than nothing at all. The digital fashion week in Paris is well done. The houses have played the game and it maintains the concept of equity.

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