Fashion
Tom Ford Men’s Collection Fall 2023

In fashion, I don’t look back. As I turn my back on the track, I think about what I’m going to do next season. I don’t look back. That’s what Tom Ford said in October 2021 during a conversation about his book 002. Yet that was then. At this time, when Ford’s sale of its eponymous brand to Estee Lauder for $2.8 billion means it’s heading into other pursuits by the end of 2023, it’s only fair and appropriate that it look back at what he has accomplished. This collection, you’d expect, will be the first of a few that double down on Ford’s iconography while acting to amplify it as he continues to steer the ship.
Ford launched its menswear in April 2007, three years after leaving Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, and two years after launching its own brand via fragrance and eyewear partners. I made the men’s clothing out of personal need. I realized that if I want these things and can’t find them, then other people do too. What Ford wanted was the bespoke creativity of Savile Row, but stripped of its stiff delivery and then infused with a sexy hit of the new luxury codes he did so much to pioneer at Gucci.
As communicated via a member of his team, these 23 inch wide cuffed trousers with pointed lapels and a powerful shoulder silhouette (best seen in look 33) along with the Prince of Wales check acted as a specific reference to the Ford’s first disruptive outing against the skinny, the Dior Homme hegemony. The Look 13s double-breasted, shoulder-padded wool and cashmere officer’s coat with a funnel neck closure was a nod to an outerwear that was among Ford’s best-selling men’s and women’s at Gucci. A caramel cafe racer jacket was also vv TF x GG. Deeply Fordian, the jewel-toned, silk/organza color-block day and evening looks contemporary echoes of the late ’60s color explosion on Savile Row, inflected by the psychedelic swirl of Carnaby Street and set to music by the Beatles at number 3.
The collection also had points of evolution, particularly in the workmanship, and most notably in the velvet, which was croc-embossed and flocked to the denim in perfectly fitted and dangerously stylish casual jacket shapes. There was also embossed croc leather, fine-gauge silk knits pierced with metallic foil, and little punk mohair sweaters with light graffiti embossing. An amethyst viscose three-piece consisting of a jacket, a tracksuit-style zipper and these attractively tapered trousers combined with a tailored suit and a leisure suit in a fresh form that is effective and not at all kitschy.
While the first date in 2023 was believed to be the farewell tour for Ford, this collection was full of much-loved and deeply coveted trophies and foreshadowed women’s fashion to come. He observed during this 2021 conversation: I say in the book that designing clothes for men is like Vicodin and designing clothes for women is like cocaine, and it’s true. I like to design them both, but they are completely different. Let’s savor Ford’s intoxicating fashion formulas of all flavors while he’s always on hand to cook them.
Sources 2/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-menswear/tom-ford The mention sources can contact us to remove/changing this article |
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