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From fashion astronaut to king of perfumes

From fashion astronaut to king of perfumes

 


PARIS

From fashion astronaut to king of perfumes

Nicknamed Wacko Paco in the 1960s for his often unwearable designs, Spaniard Paco Rabanne has become better known in recent years for his globally popular line of perfumes as well as his eccentric beliefs.

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Shunned as a metalworker by Coco Chanel, his influence nonetheless spanned many generations and he dressed global superstar Lady Gaga in all-paper outfits for her 2011 appearance at the MTV Europe Music Awards.

He also designed Jane Fonda’s iconic costume for the 1968 sci-fi film Barbarella and dresses for French icons Brigitte Bardot and Françoise Hardy.

Rabanne began as a co-creator of the 1960s space age movement alongside designers such as Pierre Cardin, who incorporated the era’s giddy excitement around the future and technological advancements into their clothing.

His 1966 catwalk brought him instant fame and notoriety when he stunned audiences with 12 unbearable dresses, his models dancing barefoot on the catwalk in outfits made of sharp metal and other unlikely materials.

I’ve always felt like an accelerator of time, he wrote in typically enigmatic style for a retrospective at Antwerp’s fashion museum MoMu in 2016.

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To go as far as is reasonable for his time and not indulge in the morbid pleasure of the known things, which I consider to be forfeiture.

Francisco Rabaneda-Cuervo was born in 1934 in the Basque region of Spain, near the city of San Sebastian, where his mother was a seamstress for designer Cristobal Balenciaga and his army general father.

Rabanne’s life was uprooted by the Spanish Civil War when dictator Francisco Franco’s army turned on his father, a Guernica garrison commander, and shot him dead in 1936.

In 1939, his family fled to France and Rabanne continued his studies at the University of Fine Arts in Paris, where he obtained a degree in architecture.

He began his career in fashion by creating accessories – jewelry, ties, buttons – which attracted the attention of Christian Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Cardin.

After the media furor around his own line, Rabanne signed a deal in 1968 that brought him under the ownership of the Barcelona-based Puig family, heavyweights in the fashion and perfume industry.

This marked his entry into fragrances which would see his name become synonymous with cologne, eventually even eclipsing his fame as a designer.

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Always provocative, Rabanne had a penchant for mysticism and esotericism.

He claimed to have had multiple lifetimes, being around 78,000 years old, having made love to Earth, seeing God, and being visited by aliens.

In 1999 he predicted in his book Fire From Heaven that Paris would be destroyed later that year when the Russian space station Mir crashed into Earth, a claim derived from his reading of the 16th century French seer Nostradamus.

To say that Paco Rabanne is marching towards his own drummer is an understatement, wrote the New York Times in 2002. He has been called a futurist, fashion designer, mystic, madman, Dadaist, sculptor, architect, astrologer, perfumer, artist and prophet.

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