the ten trends for autumn-winter 2023/24

For fall/winter 2023/24, there will be no revolution, but beautiful clothes with impeccable cuts, luxurious materials, rich in creative research. The marathon of men’s shows in Florence, Milan and Paris, which ended on January 22, confirmed the ever-growing enthusiasm for tailoring via minimalist elegance that has emerged in recent seasons, as evidenced by the countless tone-on-tone total looks in a neutral palette where black dominates. But this return to the classic style is done with a renewed approach to the men’s wardrobe, through extensive research on constructions and textures, while continuing to ride the loungewear train. The attitude is relaxed with an elongated silhouette, playing on exaggerated volumes.

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1. The long coat

The maxi coat will be the star piece for winter 2023/24. Enveloping, it goes down to the ground and sweeps the ground, preferably cut in a beautiful wool. Also available in leather, tweed, double-sided cashmere and other materials, it can sometimes be transformed into a cape. Often in black, like a gothic twisted cassock à la Matrix or Nosferatu, or in a large fur coat, it is worn bare-chested and bare-legged, as at Loewe, Dolce & Gabbana and AMI Paris, among others.

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2. The costume in all its forms

Men’s fashion has gone back to basics, but with a more sophisticated and edgy approach. The costume has been making a strong comeback for several seasons now. But this great classic is revisited in small touches, in construction, buttoning and proportions. An elegant and nonchalant silhouette is favored, with wide trousers and large unstructured jackets with drooping shoulders, often split, extended into a stole, experimenting with asymmetries and unusual openings, and worn with a turtleneck sweater.

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3. Loose pants

The silhouette is longer than ever thanks to oversized pants, which drip and sometimes pull down the legs in a Nineties spirit. Comfort is key. Darts or zips, pleated or draped, the pants are loose and extra wide, sometimes resembling skirts like at Kenzo. The cargo model, with its maxi pockets, is particularly popular and is available in all materials.

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4. Comfortable

If streetwear is less present in the masculine, the notion of comfort is no less essential and is even accentuated with an almost affective-childish dimension, with many “regressive” pieces referring to childhood. Clothes must protect, but also and above all pamper, through warm and cozy materials and enveloping volumes. Next winter’s wardrobe should include at least one loungewear item (trousers, jogging bottoms or other, made from an ultra-soft material) and one plush item, such as a worsted wool jacket or trousers, a teddy bear, curly wool cardigans, cashmere ensemble, sheepskin coat, etc.

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5. A touch of Scotland

Between tartans, Fair Isle patterns and kilts, the Scottish spirit has imposed itself on the catwalks this season. First with men’s skirts. Introduced a few years ago in the men’s wardrobe, the skirt is now ubiquitous, especially in the form of a pleated wrap kilt, which is easier to wear. The Scottish yarn is also very present through the typical Scottish warrior checks used to emphasize a punk spirit and a grunge style through the lumberjack shirts, or a British chic side through the classic checked suit.

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6. Run

Shorts worn over pants or leggings are the latest winter chic, for a sporty long-distance runner look. Wide and ample, the shorts turn into comfortable Bermuda shorts to replace the pants. The shorts are part of a trend spotted on most catwalks which consists of superimposing several layers of clothing.

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7. The tuxedo jacket

With the return to a more traditional wardrobe, the tuxedo jacket is the new essential piece of the season. Recognizable by its lapels covered in black satin, it is now played down, worn bare-chested, or paired with a hoodie or casual trousers. It is revisited in unusual shapes or transformed into a coat as seen at Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Fendi, Hed Mayner and Sean Suen.

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8. Banker Blue

This typically masculine sky blue, symbolized by the banker’s shirt, oscillating between azure blue and a more ashen shade, made a remarkable breakthrough on the catwalks. It is most often seen as a total look or in small touches across a single piece, such as a scarf.

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9. Home Sweet Home

The pandemic is not completely over and the domestic dimension is felt in many collections. Bode and Louis Vuitton have recreated a real house on their catwalk. Federico Cina and Magliano walked their models with chairs. At JW Anderson, they held their cushions firmly under their arms or against their chests. From a design point of view, this translates into quilted or down coats, fringed capes and cozy and voluminous sets.

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10. Clogs

Sneakers and boots have been seen on many catwalks, from rubber rain boots to leather biker boots, a look that is always very popular. But clogs seem to be the new trend for winter 2023/24. Available at Kenzo, Dries Van Noten, Dhruv Kapoor and Etro, among others, who offer them in felt, embellished with golden studs.