Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024

ISOLA BELLA, Italy Rain and wind couldn’t stop Nicolas Ghesquire from putting on a gripping cruise show on Wednesday night at Isola Bella, one of Lake Maggiore’s most beautiful Borromean Islands. On the contrary, the dark, low clouds seemed to accentuate the impact of the mysterious female creatures he envisioned for the podium.

I was very drawn to the story around the lake, its magical creatures, the designer said before the show, emphasizing that he wanted the first models to look like they came out of the water, they are the explorers of the lake, beautiful creatures, almost like the mythological mermaids of the lake with dragon wings.

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Throughout the show, however, Ghesquire’s imagination transformed them into botanical references, inspired by the carefully tended gardens outside the 16th-century Borromean palace.

Honestly, I could have made 15 collections with this environment, he said simply, in an exclusive joint interview with Pietro Beccari, president and CEO, who joined the brand last February from Dior.

Long-time Ghesquire supporter Alicia Vikander said the designer always brought me into a whole and complete universe, but [here] especially with what I do, it felt like watching an opera or a movie.

Despite the unforgiving weather, which forced the Vuitton team to move the show from the gardens inside the palace, the mood was upbeat and the connection between Ghesquire and Beccari palpable.

In fact, the interior of the palace owned by the aristocratic Borromeo family was a perfect fit for the collection, with its Baroque embellishments, paintings by Raffaello and Tiziano, and stucco and frescoed ceilings. Several pieces in pastel colors matched several looks. On the ground floor, an astonishing series of rooms are entirely decorated like caves, with shells and patterns formed by pebbles.

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Shells and aquatic motifs returned to the clothing, underlined by imposing and oversized hats made in Rome by a workshop that works in cinema and theater. We wanted to have craftsmanship to contribute to the collection, the designer said.

Ghesquire spoke of romanticism, which was also inspired by the lake. Although he admitted he took a different path from his previous exhibition venues, including Oscar Niemeyer’s futuristic MAC Niteri in Brazil or Eero Saarinen’s TWA Flight Center at JFK Airport in New York. , he said he believes the architecture is extremely strong here, and on top of that there is the history. Theater [Massimo] is truly magical, it is a beautiful place and very unique and dreamlike. He showed the pyramid, which looks like a temple and is difficult to define, and the colossal statue of the unicorn, the heraldic symbol of the Borromeo family, as Beccari pointed out.

Statues, obelisks and fountains are integrated into the vegetation of the 10 panoramic terraces of the palace.

Everyone thinks of cruises on the sea, but on the lake, they are beautiful and very romantic, it’s a different way to approach the subject of cruising, said Ghesquire.. I’ve always wanted to show in Italy, Italian culture is fascinating and it’s a dream to show here in such an iconic place, very sophisticated and a bit secretive.

It was also a way to bring Beccari back to Italy, he added with a smile. It was the first major Vuitton show organized in the country.

France and Italy share this love for fashion, it is undeniable, and the two countries are very strong in this category, said the designer.

If you look at luxury around the world, it’s about history, passion, transmission of know-how and you can’t invent a luxury brand whether you have the history or not, Beccari said. , who noted that legendary luxury brands reside in Europe and that won’t change in 100 years, although he acknowledged Tiffany & Co., founded in 1859, and now also part of the LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton group.

The first looks were based on the idea of ​​scuba diving suits, in technical fabrics but with shell-shaped collars and decorations resembling drops of water. There were also some trendy miniskirts trimmed with the seashell trope. Patterns such as brush strokes or iridescent patterns reminiscent of reptile scales contributed to the intriguing looks.

Ghesquire unveiled dive tank bags and a boxy case in a new sand-colored monogram, a new sneaker whose name we’re still looking for, the designer said, and he’s revisited the GO-14 bag, launched in October 2014 for its first parade.

We’re remastering it, it’s a throwback to the future, Beccari said.

The friendly banter between the two and reciprocal support throughout the interview underscored forward-looking statements and a more forthcoming attitude.

Underscoring the importance of balancing new fashion products with signature elements, Ghesquire has also reworked the criss-cross mesh pattern on Louis Vuitton bags. He flipped it over the bags, with strong canvas lining the trunks now outside the accessories, Beccari noted.

Ghesquire wanted to gradually show a more feminine woman in the collection, and he telegraphed this message with rounded skirts adorned with shells, delicate silk dresses, embroidered and feather-light trousers, georgette capes with jacquard paints , mesh with chiffon slits and draped dresses. in transparent jersey with soft silicone layers that contribute to the moisture effect also in contrasting colors, such as bright blue and yellow or orange and pale lilac.

There were a few geometric jackets with medieval accents and unmistakably Ghesquire in shiny leather that looked like stingray but was inspired by the fish in the lake. The cashmere sailor’s coat with the rope detailing was reminiscent of the sheltered wooden boats below.

Inspiration from the location was also seen in the floral tapestry and stained glass effects on the hand-embroidered dresses, or the damask with prints symbolizing lake creatures and the unicorn. From the water, the designer shifted his attention to the flowers of the island garden, with blooming lace and organza in monochromatic dresses with puffed sleeves or feathered hems.

These are characters that could be in a movie, and I like the idea of ​​combining the ordinary with the extraordinary, he says.

In addition to paying homage to the lake, the designer wanted to pay tribute to the best Italian craftsmen and their craft. To be sure, the craftsmanship of this collection was breathtaking. I think I always had in mind the fantasy of showing in Italy and probably some elements were there, but it’s true that when I saw the island, the planets aligned, and it is for sure the collection that I want to express for the Italian public and the world.

He also shared that his first love for fashion was fueled in early Italy, working for fantastic people at Callaghan and on a few Trussardi collections as a freelancer. What I learned at that time has always stayed in my heart, he says smiling.

As for Beccari, he sticks to his age-old mantras that have served him well over the years, propelling the brands he’s helmed, from Fendi to Dior, to new heights. I don’t change, I don’t take risks, I think larger than life and I feel like I’m in the right place,” the CEO said.

He praised his dream team of champions, the talent of Ghesquire, a true designer, citing him in the same breath as Karl Lagerfeld, and the arrival of Pharrell Williams, whom Beccari hired in February as creative director of menswear, and whom he described as talented for his intuition of trends and his understanding of the future. Williams attended the show on the island.

Shortly after joining Vuitton, Beccari suggested hosting the brand’s Pre-Fall 2023 show in Seoul. The event, held on a bridge over the Hangang River, took place at the end of April and recorded 435 million views, the largest in terms of Louis Vuitton fashion shows to date, the official said proudly. ‘executive.

It was a fantastic parade and it was not planned when I arrived on board but I saw the collection, I found it so beautiful and Korea is such a beautiful country that I proposed it and Nicolas had the audacity and courage to say yes to my crazy idea. It made me realize that all the effort we put into the mid-range collections deserved a show.

Nodding, Ghesquire said the venture had sparked new enthusiasm. It was a bold game changer, and a sensational moment, when you get that kind of proposition, you can just go for it.

In two weeks in February, we shared our vision and our mentality that nothing is impossible. Everything is fine but we will see what we can do because in the end we will be judged by our results in life and in football, Beccari said, referring to his debut as a footballer.

In addition to Vikander, other house friends and international celebrities traveled to the island to watch the cruise show, including Jennifer Connelly and her husband Paul Bettany; Emma Stone; Oprah Winfrey; Léa Seydoux; Catherine Deneuve and Jaden Smith.

Cate Blanchett was back from the Cannes Film Festival, where she wore two durable Louis Vuitton dresses, and on her way back to Australia. I was talking with Nicolas last year and he came up with the idea of ​​using sustainable silk and sustainable velor so it’s a whole new process, using a lot less water, it was amazing that you could getting these amazing colors and highlights, she explained of her dresses. The black velvet robe with durable silk was green, and the white one was made with dead animals and pre-existing fabrics.

It was a breathtaking sight in such an incredible, dramatic and unexpected place, said Gemma Chan. I loved the stunning headpieces and dresses at the end, it was amazing and I already got my eyes on some red carpet stuff, she added.

Launch the gallery: Louis Vuitton Resort 2024

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