Fashion

Ralph Lauren returns to New York Fashion Week, Peter Do debuts with Helmut Lang

This article first appeared on Vogue.com.

Summer may be reaching its peak in both temperature and mood, but it’s time to start anticipating what’s in store for New York Fashion Week. The New York Spring 2024 ready-to-wear runway schedule was released this morning, and there are some exciting developments.

First up was the debut of Peter Dos at Helmut Lang, which landed the kickoff on Friday, September 8 at 2 p.m. It’s the first time we’ve seen the label on the catwalk since the spring of 2020, when Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson were at the helm. Dos’ eponymous collection remains off schedule following the digital release of its Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Although Helmut Lang is the seasons official Opening, Coach’s Stuart Vevers will showcase his new collection the night before, and he has good reason for the special timeslot of celebrating his 10th anniversary with the brand.

Also Friday is Ralph Laurenher first appearance at New York Fashion Week since September 2019. Other returning names include Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport, who showcased her collections in Los Angeles; Phillip Lim, who hasn’t hosted a 3.1 Phillip Lim show since before the pandemic, and Jonathan Cohen, who has been focusing on digital releases for a few years. Alejandro Gmez Palomo, who came to NYFW last season with Palomo Spain, will once again be performing in the city on Saturday, September 9 at 3 p.m.

THE CFDA/vogue fashion fund is once again a contest, and its finalists are scattered across the calendar, some of them for the very first time. New to the calendar are Rachel Scott of Diotima, Sami Mir of Sami Mir Vintage and Kozaburo Akasaka of Kozaburo, all presenting in person, and Melitta Baumeister, who will be posting images from her collection digitally.

Absent from the program this season are Sandy Liang, Veronica Beard, the recently renamed Simkhai (formerly Jonathan Simkhai), Rodarte and Heron Preston. Thom Browne, the CFDA president, is off the schedule after returning to the NYFW schedule in February. While a rep for the brand wouldn’t share Brownes’ plans for the Spring 2024 season, they did say the designer will be hosting a series of activations in New York and overseas to celebrate his 20th anniversary, with more information to come, and they look forward to supporting our fellow US designers throughout the upcoming New York Fashion Week. Plus, Tom Ford’s new creative director Peter Hawkins will make its debut in Milan, and Fformes Paul Helbers will present its first show on Sunday, September 10 at 12 p.m. As for the weeks closer to Wednesday, September 13? The honor once again goes to Raul Lopez de Luar.

A year ago, NYFW’s Spring 2023 schedule was jam-packed, with more than 120 brands across physical, digital and appointment releases, plus guest appearances from Fendi and Marni. This time, the program has less than 100 brands in all formats (and no shared time slots!), a significant trimming. But even despite a reduced lineup, newcomers Grace Ling, Advicery, Sho Konishi and Chan Chit Lo have found slots. Well, see what this next class of designers has to offer six weeks from now.

New York Fashion Week runs from Friday, September 8 through Wednesday, September 13.

Sources

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2/ https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/ralph-lauren-returns-to-nyfw-peter-do-to-make-helmut-lang-debut

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