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London Fashion Week Report: We are not Little Britain

London Fashion Week Report: We are not Little Britain


It's a cliché to say that dark economic times always bring out the best in London, but there is truth to it. Mainly because it's the main rule of London designers

that you have to be yourself, and that when the economy is bad, you go harder and harder, as Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen all did. Multiculturalism is as much a part of London's creative superpower as a fashion city as it is of its individualism. You just can't make them trends (quiet luxury is a confusing concept), but we've seen JW Anderson come out with total clarity, almost a brutally brilliant sketch for young people about the Britishness of old people, and Erdem, passionately focusing on everything he believes with his decorative undone homage to Maria Callas. There is no similarity between these two, who have nothing in common with Paolo Carzana, the gently poetic young Welsh arsonist, except that, 20 years ago, Erdem and Jonathan Anderson also set out, almost penniless, fueled as Carzana is today, by hope and vision.

I haven't been able to cover everything, but I would like to highlight one last important point. If you flip through the cover of Vogue Runways, you'll see the collections of 17 independent women designers, from Emilia Wickstead to Dilara Findikoglu, from Simone Rocha to Dimitra Di Petsa, from Sinead ODwyer to Molly Goddard, from Ahluwalia to Tolu Coker, from Roksanda Ilincic to Robyn Lynch and Masha. Popova to Kazna Asker. Another thing about what this list means for London: these designers represent their connections to Greece, Turkey, Ireland, China, Serbia, Nigeria, India, Ukraine and many other countries. You don't have to look far to know that London's fashion energy thrives because we're not Little Britain. Sarah Mower




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