Fashion
In the self-referential season of Fashions, designers become their own muses
The most obvious expression of this is the designers who play in the lookbooks. Gucci has chosen many of its design team to model the bizarre and quirky things they create. Beatrice Gianni, designer of handbags, carries a bag of her own making. Sabrina Pilkati of the Women’s Ready-to-Wear Team Wears a Complete Feminine RTW Look; The same goes for the designer of men’s ready-to-wear Marvin Desroc. In addition to making its designs stand out, Gucci also hosted a 12-hour live broadcast to show off its internal ideology in practice.
In Los Angeles, The Elder Statesman did the same, featuring a patchwork of smiling knitters, traders and vendors and basking in cashmere knits. (It’s worth noting that The Elder Statesman is the only brand to publicly admit hiring a Vibe consultant; maybe it’s a Los Angeles thing, but I guess more brands have soothsayers behind the scenes. on their payrolls.) Meanwhile in London, Burberrys staff were pictured in the brand’s tartan and sleek black suits outside their own homes. The muses of summer 2020 are not whisperers of distant idealized trends, they are the people around us, closest to us and dearest to us.
Tyrone Dylan Susman wears mesh tank top as part of Rick Owens Spring 2021 Menswear Collection
Photo: courtesy of Rick Owens
Rick Owens’ Spring 2011 Net Tank Final
Photo: Indigital.tvBut perhaps the most interesting development of this self-referencing season is the designer as her own muse. Yes, there’s Gabriela Hearst alongside her sister in the brand’s lookbook and in a touch of machismo Philipp Plein mall grabs a skateboard in its own. More interesting are the sparks from the designers’ own obsessions and personal references to past work. Rick Owens obviously did, citing spring 2017 mesh tops and spring 2011 semi-sheer tank tops in his spring 2021 menswear offering. I looked back and used my own archives. Because I was in this state of mind that wasn’t going to throw things away, he told Vogues Luke Leitch. Even Larry Legaspi’s homage to Owenss’ fall 2019 collection has been reimagined in a trapezoidal stitched jacket, brazenly worn by Tyrone Dylan Susman in the lookbook.
Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquire Resort 2021
Photo: courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquire fall 2007
Photo: Getty ImagesAt Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquire took a more abstract approach and maybe he needs to. He designed one iconic collection after another as he helmed Balenciaga as an adult and teenager, then had such an acrimonious breakup that he landed in court. Even this acrimonious breakup didn’t stop Ghesquire from building an archive and embarking on a slow journey down memory lane: striped tops and baggy cargo pants, poetic antique-colored lace ruffle collars, office workers. from the 80s with a cinched waist and synthetic materials. I looked for a place that had called me for a long time, a place I hadn’t taken the time to return to. I took the time to explore my creative identity and prepare for the future, he tells Nicole Phelps. It’s also hard not to draw a line between previous collections and the past work of designers: the explosive dresses of fall 2020 starched the Edwardian predecessors of Balenciaga spring 2006.
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