Hollywood men leading the men's jewelry revival: From Timothe Chalamet, Jared Leto and Cillian Murphy, to Rami Malek and Saltburns Barry Keoghan, the boys who do the right bling

LV gets involved

As men's jewelry grows in popularity, fashion houses are capitalizing on the trend. In January, French luxury giant Louis Vuitton launched its first fine jewelry line for men, including bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants in white and yellow gold, as well as more modern materials like titanium.

Entry-level items in the line include a small white gold ring and a single earring. At the more exclusive end of the spectrum, there's a white gold ring set with 140 diamonds, or an extravagant laser-cut white gold necklace dripping with precious stones.

Les Gastons also includes the eternal favorite of gentlemen, the signet ring. Like many other items in the collection, it bears the recognizable LV monogram, contrary to the long-standing tradition of a signet ring bearing a family crest or one's own initials.

I wouldn't wear a signet ring with LV on it unless my name was Vince Lambert or Leslie Valentine or something, said British designer Tom Stubbs, who has dressed many celebrities for decades, including actors Eddie Redmayne and Mark Strong, actor-singer. Luke Evans, actor-filmmaker-rapper Ed Skrein and singer-songwriter David Gray.

A new version of the signet ring

Stubbs said he and his friends, none of whom were born into the English upper class, were subverting the established roots of signet rings by wearing carefree but luxurious variations by London jeweler Toby McLellan, which he calls a cross between the rings of the players' little finger and the traditional signet ring style. These can be shaped like champagne labels, engraved with cheeky references and personal messages, adorned with graffiti or sporting the raver's favorite, the smiley face.

We love signet rings, but we wear them differently than the classy guys, Stubbs said. We're not landed gentry, so our way of doing things is a bit ironic.

In addition to experimenting with signet rings, Stubbs says jewelry-curious men should consider trying a neck chain that hits sexually at the sternum, weighted with a personalized pendant or personal piece. On mine, I currently have a small cameo ring that belonged to my mother, given to me by my father. I like jewelry to have a little story, he said.

This story may also stem from an item's origins with a respected manufacturer, boasting deep roots in the industry. For men in particular, jewelry is a lot like shoes: you have to invest in quality, Stubbs said.

You have to have good things and ideally they will come from a company with a history in jewelry, like Bulgari or Cartier, real houses with character and lineage.

The origin and period of manufacture are essential

Cristel Tan, international jewelry specialist for Southeast Asia at Phillips auction house, says a piece of jewelry's history and provenance are vitally important.

Look for particular brands and periods, she advised the man contemplating an expensive jewelry acquisition. Cartier from the 1920s, for example, is particularly collectible.

She recommends Taffin as a contemporary jeweler with strong unisex appeal and suggests connoisseurs look to the sought-after Joel Arthur Rosenthal, aka JAR, both based in New York.

However, above all, men should buy what they love and will enjoy wearing, says Tan, being aware that something personal like an engraved signet ring can become a sentimentally priceless family heirloom, but it won't necessarily be an investment that appreciates over time in monetary terms. terms.

We don't tend to offer these kinds of things at auction unless the owner is a famous or well-known person, she explained.

As for current men's jewelry trends, brooches are definitely making a comeback, Tan said. It's interesting to see men appreciate more traditional pieces, like frill pins. [a brooch that showcases its two decorative, jewel-encrusted ends]or use a brooch in an interesting way as a fastener for their tuxedo jacket, for example.

She notes the return of jewelry worn on the wrist. “We see men wearing things like Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra bracelets and they are embracing this trend of having more accessories,” Tan said. And I notice that more and more men are wearing a diamond eternity bracelet with their watch.

Phillips began putting jewelry on male models in his auction catalogs, juxtaposing casual clothing such as jeans and T-shirts with jeweled statement pieces.

This demonstrates that you can wear this jewelry in other ways, and it's not just for formal events, Tan said. Men can dress down to earth, and then when they add a truly standout piece of jewelry, it elevates their entire look.