Just add warmth: Researchers create a style-changing dress

Researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) Self-Assembly Lab have created prototypes of a 4D knit dress that can change styles using heat.

The yarn that makes up most of the dress is a blend of viscose from FSC-certified wood pulp and polyester. The active wire is made of nylon which changes shape and properties when heated. These are integrated throughout the dress, allowing it to change style, such as adding ribbing, pleats or a cinched waist, depending on where the heat is directed.

The basic dress design is programmed into a tubular knitting machine; then a six-axis robotic arm heats the dress in specific areas to create the desired style.

There was a lot of trial and error to figure out how to orient the robot and the heat gun, says Danny Griffin, an MIT architectural design graduate student who helped program the robotic arm. Heat must be applied to specific locations to activate the fibers in each garment. Another challenge was adjusting the temperature and when the heat should be applied.

The dress and technology debuted to the public in December 2023 at the Ministry of Supply, a men's and women's professional clothing store in Boston, Massachusetts. Previously, the lab and the clothing company collaborated in 2020 and 2021, using this technology to quickly produce masks. masks during the pandemic.

Gihan Amarasiriwardena, co-founder and chairman of the Ministry of Supply, supports the technology and its potential to develop a more sustainable manufacturing process. Often you'll guess what a season's style is, he says. Sometimes the style doesn't fit or certain sizes don't sell. They can be greatly reduced or possibly end up in a landfill.

With the technology already commercially available, the lab and Ministry of Supply continue to explore other applications and will move forward based on consumer feedback. If the demand is there, we can create it quickly, says Amarasiriwardena.

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